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Ctesiphon Books

THE GULF

ARABIA'S WESTERN APPROCHES

By:
 MOLLY IZZARD
 

LONDON:     First Edition  1979

Publisher/Year: LONDON, John Murray, First Edition 1979. Binding: Original Cloth Hardcover,  in DUST WRAPPER, 22x14 cm. Pages: 314 Illustrations: 17 photo illustrations, 1 Double-page Map . жжж    Please see book CONDITION at end    жжж

Molly Izzard  (1919-2004)

Molly Izzard is the wife of Ralph Izzard, OBE, for many years one of the leading British journalists commenting on and living in the Middle East. She was born Molly Crutchleigh-Fitzpatrick, in Cornwall, and educated at a convent in Cherbourg. Her father was of Anglo-Indian stock, and had left Calcutta to work on a sugar plantation in British Guiana. When her parents separated, she accompanied him back to India, where she attended another convent in Darjeeling.
After her father died in a car accident, she returned to Britain and attended Dollar Academy before going on to a finishing school in Genoa. This was not to her teenage taste, however, so she defected to stay with an aristocratic count and his family in prewar Hungary, where she found herself mixed up in a surrealistic round of sleigh-rides, parties and balls. Her real education came through her voracious appetite for books; on one occasion she was so absorbed in reading that she set the house on fire.
With war imminent, she made her way back to England, and joined the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry as a driver. She was soon commissioned for “intelligence duties”, which entailed ferrying Duff Cooper and other important figures around London for the next three years.
This was when she met Ralph Izzard, and after the war they were married in Delhi, with Elizabeth David’s husband, Lieutenant-Colonel Anthony David, as best man. When Ralph Izzard was sent to the Middle East by the Daily Mail, the couple moved first to Egypt, but then decided that Beirut was closer to the action. There he was one of a coterie of foreign correspondents (including Kim Philby) who gathered daily at the bar of the St Georges to exchange information.
Ten years later she was back to writing from her own experience. The Gulf: Arabian Western Approaches was a masterly first-hand account of the emergence of the individual nation-states of Kuwait, Bahrain and the Emirates, set against the restrictive Wahabism of Saudi Arabia and the power of Iraq and Iran. Particularly in the case of Qatar, her incisive remarks are positively prophetic, still deserving of an audience after a quarter of a century.
When they returned to Britain from the Middle East, the Izzards settled in Tunbridge Wells. Ralph Izzard died in 1992. Molly Izzard is survived by two sons and two daughters.
Molly Izzard, was born on August 1, 1919. She died on February 4, 2004, aged 84.

 

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        ORIGINAL 1979 FIRST EDITION

in DUST WRAPPER

FASCINATING ACCOUNT

of  ARABIAN GULF

Saudi Arabia - Kuwait - Basra - Abadan
Abu Dhabi - Dubai - Sharjah
Qatar - Bahrain

With
Photograph Illustrations

This Book ...

EVENTS have made us all Arab watchers now. But so far our gaze has been dazzled by the new oil wealth and the more lurid aspects of its getting and spending. Molly Izzard has set out to provide a less partial picture of the Gulf States, their inhabitants and rulers, and to give a measure of historical perspective so that their hopes and fears, derivations and aspirations can be better understood.
In her own words, to write a book about the Gulf without touching on Saudi Arabia is like playing Hamlet without the Prince, and she places special emphasis on the rise to power and continuing domination of that puritan state, showing how its Wahabi interpretation of Islam affects the classic pattern of Sunni and Shiah belief. She also has much to say of the days when the Gulf was virtually a British Lake, controlled by the Government of India, its trade subservient to that of the sub-continent.
The picture of the Gulf Coast inhabitants that emerges is one of Arabs not so much of the desert as of the sea, an outward-looking people who are merchants and traders to their finger tips, using the skills learnt as slavers, pearlers, and gun runners to make the most of their dominant yet vulnerable position. Behind the ranks of the Gulf born-and-bred Molly Izzard brings her perceptive eye to rest on the lot of the various second-class citizens, whether they be the comparatively few European expatriate executives and engineers, the mass of imported labour from further East, the Palestinians, or the women — of whatever status and race.
Mixing personal experience and shrewd observation with anecdote and wide reading, Molly Izzard provides a store of insights which will do much to help us understand a corner of the world we can ill afford to misinterpret, whether we work there or merely rely on it for energy, heat and transport.
 

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Contents ...

Chapters

Acknowledgments

Part One:
THE ARABIAN ELDORADO

1. The Arabian peninsula – its geography – the Gulf states – their resources – their people – Haves and Have-nots – the structure of wealth – the foreign community – its status – its role – the Buzz-Phrase Generator.

2. Saudi Arabia – the Wahabi faith – its connection with the Saud family – pre-Islamic Arabia – the concept of Islam – the Wahabi interpretation and first expansion of Wahabi power. Early Islam – wars of conquest – the Sunni–Shiah Schism – the Mohurram passion-play in modern Bahrain. Wahabi piracy – interference with East India Company shipping – British naval and military intervention – the Trucial states – the Ottoman occupation of Arabia – eclipse of the Saud family – its reestablishment – King Ibn Saud – his early adventures – the collapse of the Ottoman empire in 1918.

3. Arrival in Kuwait – the town – the Dickson household – the Ottoman period – the Great War – Wahabi encroachments – collapse of inland caravan trade – democratic innovations – the British frontier settlements of 1922/3 – British Mandate in Irak – Britain's political ascendancy in the Gulf – national aspirations – an old-style Political Agent.

4. The Mandate period – the revival of Wahabism – Ibn Saud's encouragement – the Ikhwan – the Saudi expansion and the unification of central Arabia – the Ikhwan revolt - its defeat. Modern innovations - foreign advisers - the coming of American technology - World War II and the development of the oil industry - America takes over British subsidies - luxury and wealth - Wahabi prejudices - Koranic law - public executions - ostracism of foreigners - present revival of Wahabi discipline - Amiral decrees - drunkenness - road accidents - the causeway to Bahrain.

5. Kuwait - Jahra oasis - the Red Fort - more about the Ikhwan. The emergence of modern Saudi Arabia - Arab dress - immigrant communities - Arab chauvinism - the Palestinians - a two-tier society - material prosperity - the legacy of the pearl industry - how it operated - its collapse - F'jeri music - hard times - the coming of oil.

6. Bahrain - Manama and Mohurraq - land reclamation - its history - structure of society - Sunnis and Shiahs - the Persian community - more about the pearl industry - the oyster beds - the seasonal yield - collapse of the industry - effect on the population. The mercantile oligarchy - the Big Five - their origins - gardens - the boutique business - early air transport - air hostesses - bachelor girls - female emancipation - the Arab interpretation - modern marriage - persistence of traditional attitudes.

Part Two:
THE ALLUVIAL FLOW OF COMMERCE

7. Attitudes in common between Bahrain and Kuwait - their shared antecedents - `sharif' families - their marriage pattern - development of mercantile élite. British activity in Gulf - the alliance with Oman - the Omani Sultanate - defeat of the pirates - the Treaty of 18zo. Article 9 inserted by Capt. Thompson - the Evangelicals - the slave trade out of East Africa - Ethiopian and Galla slaves - eunuchs - their loss-rate
   - the Omani involvement - the Zanzibar market. Free Trade - Indian traders - increased demand for slaves - Qawasimi take to slave-running - French and American slavers - international cooperation - slave markets closed - British assume Zanzibar Protectorate - Emily Ruete - negro communities in modern Gulf - `laywa' music - spirit summoning - concubinage - its abolition - persistence of traffic into 20th century.

8. Basra at the turn of the century - British business firms - a Consul at noon - river thieves - spheres of interest - German ambitions - the Berlin-Bagdad railway - Kuwait as a terminal - Shaikh Mubarak seizes power in Kuwait - solicits British protection. Early steam navigation in Gulf - the Persian War of 1856/7 - Abadan given to Bani Ch'ab - HMS Sphinx - a Russian naval visit - a Briton rises to the occasion. The arms trade out of Muscat - its suppression - tightening of British control. Navy adopts oil fuel - Admiralty commission visits Kuwait.

9. The Persian oil concession - Abadan - Churchill's intervention - local rulers. Pan-Islam - spheres of interest in Persia - worsening relations - German propaganda warfare - Turkey's declaration of war - Force D - capture of Basra - consolidation of British presence in Gulf - Basra in 1914 - Sir Percy Cox - German saboteurs - intrigue in Bahrain - British occupy Bushire. Wassmuss - his guerilla activities in SW Persia - British discomfiture - the captives of Ahram - the Tangistan heroes - arrest of Wassmuss - his return to Tangistan - his death - his effect on official British attitudes - Imperial Airways re-routed - long-term consequences.

10. The Mandate period - Jashanmall Jhangiani - effects of Partition of India - Rawdon Spinney - the Nairn brothers — Nairn Transport — the desert furrow — first Damascus—Bagdad motorised desert crossing — the route — journey time — tribal safeconducts — Overland Desert Mail. Modern Arabian highways — freight-hauling — the Nairn bus-trains — the Rutba Wells fort — Imperial Airways — communications between Gulf and Mediterranean — American University in Beirut — its importance to Gulf community. Introduction of modern education to Gulf — the American missionaries — Dr Zwemer — travelling clinics — Christian and Jewish cemeteries in Bahrain — the American Mission in Bahrain — its influence — the Yateem family.

11. Major Frank Holmes — his arrival in the Gulf — Eastern and General Syndicate Ltd — artesian wells — the Burgan seepage — British Government interest — Holmes obtains exploratory concession from Ibn Saud — sends Mohammed Yateem to open negotiations for Kuwait concession — challenges APOC — Holmes' style of business — Colonial Office policy on Concessions — Shaikh Ahmed's skill — he drives up the price — Holmes brings in the Americans — the `open door' policy invoked — the Kuwait Oil Company. Holmes' personality — Hajji Williamson — his history — his use as negotiator — rivalry with Holmes — a late contender — final agreement.

Part Three:
CRAZED WITH THE SPELL OF FAR ARABIA

12. The lower Gulf — urbanisation — coastal development — the hinterland — road accidents — the Hajjar mountains — the Batinah coast — Khor Fakkan — modern road systems — decorated trucks.

13. The federated Emirates — Shaikh Rashid of Dubai — the town — origins of the state — the Maktum clan —Sharjah's early pre-eminence — Wahabi pressure — rivalry with Abu Dhabi — revival of piracy — British reprisals. Decline of Sharjah and emergence of Dubai.
    Qawasimi settlements on Persian shore of Gulf — Persian Government imposes centralisation on coast — emigration to Dubai and Bahrain — Lingah decays. Indian traders — the BI boats — Dubai steals a march — the Asian immigrants — the Creek — marine activity — the entrepot trade — clandestine markets — dynastic strife between Dubai and Deera — wartime black-market — the growth of prosperity — the modern city — `fleshpedlars' — the female immigrant.

14. Abu Dhabi — sightseeing — the new town — expatriate living standards — directional confusion — an English home. The agricultural research station — cosmopolitan staff — how to make the desert blossom — the modern life-style — contented refugees — a family party.

15. The tribal past — difficulties of integration — camel breeding — expatriate society — Arab sensitivity — the cocktail party — a Persian entertainment. The growth of management — effects of inflation — intolerance of criticism — the public relations industry — historical parallels.

16. Qatar — a luxury hotel — a rustic presence — generous patronage — a modest Parnassus. Town planning — old palaces — the museum — agricultural projects — problems of water supply — the state farm — manpower — problems of management — the decision-making process — pitfalls of consultancy — a royal gift — contrasts in living standards — a literary interlude.

17. Conclusions

Bibliography

Index

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Illustrations ...
 

1. Shaikh Rashid of Dubai and Shaikh Zaid of Abu Dhabi. The Arabs left to themselves are a jovial crew, sociable and lively.

2. Shaikh Hamad of Bahrain in 1921, photographed by Captain Cheeseman. He was the son of Shaikh Isa, placed in power by the British in 1864 and deposed in 1922. Shaikh Hamad was the grandfather of the present ruler of Bahrain, who maintains a large stable of Arab thoroughbreds. The Saluki dog was Hosha (bottom right), inseparable companion of Shaikh Hamad.

3. Technology comes early to the Arabian coast. This drawing is by Lieutenant Haines (1857), who did some of the first surveys of the area, the most lasting achievement of early British involvement with the Gulf and its approaches.

4. HMS Sphinx: this paddle steamer was a maid of all work in the Gulf. Originally designed as a cool and airy recreation ship for the officers patrolling the Gulf, from the 188os up to 1919 she was employed on anti-slaving, anti-gun-running and general work.

5. Lord Curzon's Viceregal address to the Rulers of the Trucial States on board ship at Sharjah in 1903. The pomp and ceremonial of the Viceroy's entourage seated on the raised dais must have come as a surprise to the Rulers, herded below. Arab notions of civility reject such crude distinctions.

6. Shaikh Mubarak of Kuwait in 1903 watching the landing of the Viceregal mission to the Gulf. The typically unostentatious appearance of the Shaikh contrasts with the ridiculous postures of the British.

7. Two of Ibn Saud's fiercely puritanical Ikhwan (brethren), Bedouin levies, photographed in Kuwait.

8. Hajji Mohammed el-Bassam, the pioneer of desert motor crossings. He ran a gold-smuggling concern from Syria to the Gulf, until stopped by the French. He then placed his knowledge of the terrain and the Bedouin tribes at the disposal of the British.

9. Nairn Transport drivers on the Damascus–Bagdad route in the 1920s.

10. An Imperial Airways plane refuelling at Rutba Wells en route for India. The fort there was built to provide safe accommodation overnight for the Airways and Nairn Transport.

11. Abu Naft—the Father of Oil. Major Frank Holmes in Kuwait in 1934.

12. The modern age intrudes inexorably on the ramshakle Ottoman administration of Mesopotamia in 1956. A Ford truck tows away the 'araba' (carriage) of a defeated Turkish general.

13. The first railway engines to be seen by the Gulf Arabs are landed at Basra for the new line to Bagdad.

14. The old Ali Reza mansion in Bahrain. The family held the Anglo-Persian kerosene agency and now live in a modern air-conditioned villa. This is a fairly typical scene of urban dishevelment: notice the container being used as a welder's shop. The tall campanile is a wind tower, a typical south Persian device reported by Marco Polo which sucks in and circulates cool air.

15. A firm of Indian contractors in Muscat hastens to demonstrate its loyalty to the new Sultan Qaboos on the overthrow of his father's regime in 197o. The resident Indian merchant community in Muscat has been established for 150 years or more.

16. Shiah popular art. These rather gaudy prints, often made in Bombay, can be bought in the suks of the Gulf, though they are anathema to the iconoclast Wahabi and orthodox Sunni elements in the ruling classes. A picture of the eighth Iman, buried at Meshed.

17. The Qatar National Museum

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Condition ...

Dust wrapper slightly rubbed at edges, otherwise book in very good condition, important reference work on the Gulf .