Brano is without a doubt the best Parisian tailoring house right now, only known for the discerning fews. Brano is the creation of two incredible talents: Brahim Bouloujour (a Master Tailor for more than 35 years and Meilleur Ouvrier de France since 2008) and Norbert Naitmazi (managing seller for Francesco Smalto Couture, their bespoke division). The name Brano is the contraction of their two first names (BRAhim and NOrbert).
Brahim Bouloujour is the last traditional Parisian tailor. Born in Casablanca, he began working at 11 years old with the locals tailors. In the 1970's, Morocco was the center of many styles of tailoring, thanks to Italian, Spanish, and French expatriates. Trained by the official supplier of the Royal House, Luigi, he discovered the Parisian style of the court and of course then-King Hassan II. At age 21, he was already chief-manager of the atelier.
However, he wanted to do more and by 1987, following the example of Francesco Smalto, he decided to go to Paris to learn the real Parisian style from the great houses: Camps de Luca, Claude Rousseau, and Cifonelli. He met the Master Tailor Guilson (who worked for Camps de Luca and Smalto) who took him under his wing. After seven years, he mastered the Parisian style. In 1994, he went to Italy and worked for Tommy & Giulio Caraceni in Rome to see what the Italian masters were capable of. While the Italians were not as precise in the details and finishing of the suit, their sense of proportions, lightness and flair are unparalleled, and Brahim Bouloujour incorporated those ideas in his creations.
By 2001, the great Claude Rousseau (probably the best Parisian cutter of all-time with Joseph Camps and Francesco Smalto) sold his atelier to Cifonelli and he decided to join them. During this time, he worked with the semi-retired Rousseau who shaped his own style and cut, as well as the intricate details and finishing of a real Parisian jacket.
In 2007, it was time for him to make his own path. Partnering with Norbert Naitmazi, who personally worked with Francesco Smalto for many years and completely understood his aesthetic, they opened Brano. The atelier was first located 8 Avenue Percier in the 8th Arrondissement, but quickly changed to 6 Avenue Pasquier in the Madeleine district, before moving again to its current location, 32 Rue de Penthièvre, a few steps from the Bristol Palace.
Under the advise of Guilson, Brahim Bouloujour passed the exam for Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2008, the hardest competition for artisans and craftsmen in France, held once every four years. He easily won the medal by crafting a stunning silk dinner jacket that took him more than 50 hours.
Brahim Bouloujour continues to produce some of the most exquisite suits, jackets, coats and trousers in Paris, all by hand, in the purest tradition. His clients are prominent lawyers, diplomats, celebrities, and heads-of-state.
I propose a typical example of his work: a pair of beige cotton-linen trousers. Made in the spring of 2009 for his partner Norbert Naitmazi, it was one of Bouloujour's first creation under the name Brano. It is the perfect trousers for the spring and summer months, with a classic navy blazer and your best pair of loafers.
As always with Brano, it is fully handmade, from the sewing to the buttonholes. They featured a rare "point baguette" (an handmade seam along the line of the trousers, similar to what you could find on a tuxedo trousers, but without the satin band). The conditions is like new.
The trousers are best fitted for a size W38UK/48FR, around 1m75.
Here are the measurements
Waist for trousers: 48cm (no fabric left to let out)
Length from inseam: 74cm
Length total: 100cm (with 2cm of fabric to let out)
Legs width: 20cm (with 5cm of fabric to widen it)
Quality similar to the following bespoke houses:
- In France: Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Arnys, Max Evzeline, Lanvin Mesure, Henri Urban, Opelka, Kenjiro Suzuki
- In Italy: Caraceni (Domenico or Augusto), Rubinacci, Dalcuore, Panico
- In England: Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Huntsman & Sons, Nutters of Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, Richard Anderson, Meyer & Mortimer
Possible to try it in Paris 15th arrondissement.