Anderson & Sheppard is a legend of English tailoring and the epitome of Savile Row’s style. Founded in 1906 by Peter Gustav Anderson at 13 Savile Row as Per Anderson, it became over the years a renowned tailoring house. However, it was with the addition of tailor and cutter Frederik Scholte, another Savile Row tailor (working from 7 Savile Row at the time), that the house truly earned its iconic style: the drape cut. Created as a reaction to the Victorian and Edwardian style common with English tailoring (tight waist and chest, narrow lapels, high-rise and tapered trousers, mostly inspired by military dress), the drape cut could be defined in one word: movement. The chest has a fuller cut, while the small high armhole and natural shoulders maintain the collar on the wearer’s neck. This “soft tailoring”, almost anathema to Savile Row military tradition, obtained an important patronage early on: the Prince of Wales, later Duke of Windsor. With another addition, trouser cutter Sydney Horatio Sheppard, the house became Anderson & Sheppard and in 1927 moved to a bigger shop on 30 Savile Row, where it would stay for almost 80 years. The 1930s were a golden era for Anderson & Sheppard. Many artists flocked to its doors, including many Hollywood actors. The most notable are Charlie Chaplin, Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks Jr., Gary Cooper, Laurence Olivier, George Gershwin, and of course Fred Astaire.
After WW2, Anderson & Sheppard maintained their reputation as one of the best tailors in the world. From a rebellious tailor, it was seen by the 1960’s as an institution on par with older names such as Henry Poole, Davies & Son, and Huntsman. Only the arrival of Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton rocked the overall quiet of the Row. Anderson & Sheppard continued on and gained the patronage of another Prince of Wales, Charles, today’s King Charles III, who remained a devoted client.
However, that doesn’t mean Anderson & Sheppard didn’t move with the times. The famous cutter John Hitchcock, trained by the legendary Charles Bryant, modernised their cut to fit the taste of a younger clientele while keeping its style. In 1983, Mr. Hitchcock became managing director and earned a Royal Warrant by 1989. New clients included director Martin Scorsese, French industrialist and art patron Pierre Bergé, and writer Fran Leibowitz. Fran Leibowitz was only the second woman to have the right to commission a bespoke jacket at Anderson & Sheppard in the 2000’s, after Marlene Dietrich. By 2005, almost a century after its founding, Anderson & Sheppard moved to another address, 32 Old Burlington Street, only a few meters away from their former location. Its style and cut remain the same since. In 2012, Anderson & Sheppard decided to open a haberdashery at 17 Clifford Street, to offer new items such as shirts, knitwear, ties and trousers (ready-to-wear and made-to-order), for clients who wants more casual clothing to complement their best suits and jackets.
I propose an incredible example of their work: a navy blue double breasted coat with a subtle herringbone pattern. Made in 1969 in a sturdy wool, it is a stunning piece that can be worn with your best business suit, or with a heavy sweater or a tweed jacket for a more casual look. It will become your favorite coat and will last you a lifetime.
As always with Anderson & Sheppard, it is fully handmade, from the lining to the buttonholes, from the shoulder to the collar. The conditions is excellent, especially for its age. Coat hanger is not included. The coat is best fitted for someone with a 40UK/50FR size, around 1m75. Here are the measurements Shoulders: 45cm Sleeve length: 63cm (with 6cm of fabric to let out) Chest: 54cm Waist at button: 52cm Coat length: 111cm (collar included, with 7cm of fabric to let out) Lapels: 11cm Quality similar to the following bespoke houses: - In France: Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Arnys, Lanvin Mesure, Henri Urban, Max Evzeline, Opelka, Kenjiro Suzuki - In Italy: Caraceni (Augusto or Domenico), Rubinacci, Dalcuore, Panico - In England: Henry Poole, Huntsman & Sons, Nutters of Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, Richard Anderson, Meyer & Mortimer Possible to try it in Paris 15th Arrondissement.