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YOU ARE ORDERING A REPAIR KIT FOR

NESPRESSO AEROCCINO FROTHER

RESETTING THERMAL FUSE SWITCH

REPAIR / UPGRADE KIT

PLEASE NOTE

IF YOUR FROTHER WORKS ON COLD THEN THIS IS NOT GOING TO HELP YOU, THE ELEMENT HAS POSSIBLY BURNT OUT (POSSIBLY BECAUSE THE THERMAL FUSE HAS BEEN REMOVED) OR A CONTROLLING COMPONERNT ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD HAS FAILED. SO IF IT WORKS ON COLD, YOU NEED READ NO FURTHER.

This kit works with both the Aeroccino 3 and with the Aeroccino plus and the Aeroccino4. Whilst the earlier models have screws, opening the Aeroccino4 but it is quite a different task. We recommend you open your Aeroccino4 first before ordering, and there are some good you-tube videos on how to do it. Search in a browser for "p9xC9jnJSRs"

IF YOUR MACHINE DOESN'T WORK AT ALL, PLEASE READ THE WHOLE DESCRIPTION BELOW:

If your frother has stopped working completely and there is a brown carbon / caramelised deposit on the base, the thermal fuse has most likely blown. If this is what has happened, the machine will never work again until the fuse is replaced.

NESPRESSO WOULD LIKE YOU TO either:

RETURN THE MACHINE TO A SERVICE CENTRE (WHO WILL SIMPLY REPLACE THE FUSE)

BIN IT and BUY A NEW MACHINE.

YOU DON'T NEED TO DO either, IT'S USUALLY A SIMPLE DIY REPAIR.

This is a repair kit which addresses the themal fuse blowing. We have 2 kits available for the Aeroccino (one (this listing) is an automatic resetting fuse and the other is a cheaper single use thermal fuse (item number 382639257183)).

THIS KIT INCLUDES:

A length of clear heat-shrink tubing for insulation
1 x resetting multiple use thermal fuse (may be sleeved metal or plastic casing depending upon our stock)
A length of clear heat-shrink tubing for insulation
2 x (female) insulated Closed End crimp cap comnnectors / joiners
10cm electrical solder wire

This listing is for a "ONCE ONLY - FIXED FOR GOOD" repair, a reuseable self resetting thermal fuse which replaces the single use thermal fuse in the machine (once fitted, if the thermal fuse blows/trips, simply clean the base of the inside of the machine and rest / leave it for a few minutes and it will reset).

So, this is not a like for like repair, this is an upgrade to a system that looks after itself, but doesn't need surgery every time it trips.

At item number 382239105009 we have a cheaper "like for like" fuse repair kit .

TOOLS NEEDED:

T10 TORX or 2.0mm HEXAGONAL or 5/64" HEXAGONAL ALLEN KEY / SCREWDRIVER BIT
PLIERS
CABLE SNIPS
SOLDER IRON

You can do this! PLEASE LOOK AT ALL THE PICTURES AS THEY ARE THERE TO GUIDE YOU.With the right tools, fitting this new fuse is EASY.

STEPS 1-3 CAN BE DONE TO CHECK THE FUSE IS INDEED THERE BEFORE ORDERING REPAIR KIT.

OK, Here we go:

Remove the 2 bolts on the base of the machine (they are triple fin type security heads but they can be removed with a T10 TORX or 2.0mm HEXAGONAL or 5/64" HEXAGONAL ALLEN KEY / SCREWDRIVER BIT or a tight fitting flat screwdriver) with 3-4 turns.
The base plate is an integral part of the whole (red in this picture) base unit. Gently pull / separate the base from the machine body (DO NOT TURN IT MORE THAN A COUPLE OF DEGREES BACK AND FORTH TO LOOSEN IT), a warm/ hot wet cloth will help as it is often stuck with dried milk.
Remove the silicone on/off button from the frother body (it just pushes out like a cork from inside)
Take as many photos as you want before going farther so you can check the position of all wires and components when it comes to re-assembly.
Cut the wires on either end of the fuse and remove the fuse along with the clear plastic sleeving.
Cut off the crimps on the ends of the 2 red wires
Strip the last 6mm of the red wires and twist ready for soldering to the fuse switch wires
Slide a new 25mm length of clear shrink sleeving on to each of the red cables and slide along so that it will not be touched by the solder iron (the shrink sleeving used in the photo is coloured red so it can be seen in the picture).
Tuck the new fuse in place underneath the base of the heater element (it is a temperature sensor so it doesn't need to be in contact, as long as it is in the proximity as per the photo (IF YOU HAVE BEEN SUPPLIED A METAL / STEEL ONE, ENSURE THE PLASTIC PROTECTIVE / INSULATING SLEEVE IS FITTED (this is not needed with the plastic cased ones)
Once in place, size and trim up the new (black) fuse switch wires so that they are not too long and broadly match the lengths of the original set-up PLEASE CHECK PHOTOS FOR GUIDANCE.
Strip the last 6mm of the fuse switch wires and twist ready for soldering to the red wires
If you are happy with the lengths and fuse / switch position, solder the joins. Slide the shrink tubing over the exposed wires and using the solder iron, shrink it in place.
Re-assemble BY UN-DOING STEPS 1 TO 3 IN ORDER 2,1 THEN 3
Put your tools away and make yourself a REWARDING cappuccino.

Please re-check all the pictures and diagrams before you start the job.

Although it's not essential to solder (as we do supply the joiners required to do this as a solderless repair as part of the kit) we do believe that a soldered join is the best and recommend that it is soldered.

n.b. PLEASE read the following carefully before ordering

To avoid any doubt, this listing is for a REPAIR KIT, NOT A FROTHER.

If your frother is spinning and not heating, then it is NOT fused and this kit wont help you.

Some frothers are refurbished by removing / bypassing this safety feature and can often be sold as new. This thermal fuse is the frother's last line of defence from overheating and self destruction. It NEEDS to be in place to protect your heater element.

You can take your machine apart BEFORE you order the repair kit to be sure the machine either has a fuse and is still in situ in your machine.

If it has no fuse or it been removed already, then this kit won't help you as your element has possibly gone (which can't be repaired as it is housed in a mineral based enamel which requires temperatures of 1400+ to melt) or some other component/s has/have failed (this can be fixed in theory, but not such an easy fix as it requires testing of individual components).

Some frothers which look just like the aeroccino 3 on the outside have a different circuit board and some (esp. refurbished) machines are either not fitted with a temperature fuse or have had it removed. Wit these machines, (if it is dead and there is no fuse) this fix / kit will not repair your machine however, one can add it as an aftermarket upgrade to protect the heater element if the machine is in working order.

This kit works perfectly with the Aeroccino plus and the Aeroccino4 but it is quite a different task to open an Aeroccino4. We recommend you open your Aeroccino4 first before ordering, there are some good you-tube videos on how to do it. Search in a browser for p9xC9jnJSRs.

n.b Just to be sure there is no misunderstanding, a new fuse will NOT stop burnt milk, only regular cleaning after every use will stop the base from burning the milk.

However, the lack of cleaning and burnt milk that comes as a consequence WILL eventually trip or blow your thermal fuse.

Happy customer messages:

thank you friend, I received the complete repair kit to fix my aeroccino and I did everything as you are in the place and it worked, thanks again for everything you returned part of the happiness of my girl lol

Your repair kit did the job perfectly saving me a fortune on a replacement unit. Just wanted to say thanks. Ernie.

Hi, many thanks for sending the repair kit out swiftly. Everything worked perfectly and my Aerccino is now fully restored! Rob

n.b. All measurements are approximate.

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You can do this! PLEASE LOOK AT ALL THE PICTURES AS THEY ARE THERE TO GUIDE YOU.With the right tools, fitting this new fuse is EASY.

STEPS 1-3 CAN BE DONE TO CHECK THE FUSE IS INDEED THERE BEFORE ORDERING REPAIR KIT.

OK, Here we go:

Remove the 2 bolts on the base of the machine (they are triple fin type security heads but they can be removed with a T10 TORX or 2.0mm HEXAGONAL or 5/64" HEXAGONAL ALLEN KEY / SCREWDRIVER BIT or a tight fitting flat screwdriver) with 3-4 turns.

The base plate is an integral part of the whole (red in this picture) base unit. Gently pull / separate the base from the machine body (DO NOT TURN IT MORE THAN A COUPLE OF DEGREES BACK AND FORTH TO LOOSEN IT), a warm/ hot wet cloth will help as it is often stuck with dried milk.

Remove the silicone on/off button from the frother body (it just pushes out like a cork from inside)

Take as many photos as you want before going farther so you can check the position of all wires and components when it comes to re-assembly.

Cut the wires on either end of the fuse and remove the fuse along with the clear plastic sleeving.

Cut off the crimps on the ends of the 2 red wires

Strip the last 6mm of the red wires and twist ready for soldering to the fuse switch wires

Slide a new 25mm length of clear shrink sleeving on to each of the red cables and slide along so that it will not be touched by the solder iron (the shrink sleeving used in the photo is coloured red so it can be seen in the picture).

Once in place, size and trim up the new (black) fuse switch wires so that they are not too long and broadly match the lengths of the original set-up PLEASE CHECK PHOTOS FOR GUIDANCE.

Strip the last 6mm of the fuse switch wires and twist ready for soldering to the red wires

If you are happy with the lengths and fuse / switch position, solder the joins. Slide the shrink tubing over the exposed wires and using the solder iron, shrink it in place.

Re-assemble BY UN-DOING STEPS 1 TO 3 IN ORDER 2,1 THEN 3

Put your tools away and make yourself a REWARDING cappuccino.