British Western Red Cedar Cladding Stocked For Fast Delivery 

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Pricing (excludes delivery costs):

• Finishing depth 15mm x 135mm face cover, FCT01, planed tongue and v grooved profile @ £47.95 m² / £6.47 lm incl VAT
• 45mm x 45mm L shaped trims @ £7.06 lm incl VAT
• See second photo for profile

Why Choose British Western Red Cedar?

• Natural Beauty and Durability: British Western Red Cedar cladding offers beautiful pink to amber colour variation with frequent dark knots, providing a contemporary and characterful aesthetic perfect for any cladding project. British cedar is a desirable yet cost effective alternative to Canadian cedar.
• Superior Waterproofing: The natural oil content in cedar makes for a durable, long-lasting and low-maintenance cladding material. British Cedar resists decay, rot, fungal attack and insects.
• Climate Suitability: Home grown cedar is well suited to the UK climate making it an all-round perfect choice for outdoor projects.
• Low Maintenance: Silver over time for a rustic charm or maintain its natural colour with regular oiling. We recommend coating with Osmo 420 Clear oil to enhance the natural appearance and to delay weathering.

Specifications:

• Standard & Better Grade British Western Red Cedar
• FCT01, TGV Profile, Fin 15mm x 135mm face cover, 144mm overall
• L shaped trims Fin 45mm x 45mm
• Class 3 durable softwood with up to 30 years service life (@ 18mm depth)
• No seasoning needed unless used in extreme environments like saunas

Delivery Price:

Fixed fee of £65 for delivery, price is the same whether it be 1 length or hundreds of lengths.

Delivery

• Stock orders despatched next day, delivered 2 days thereafter
• Kerbside delivery only
• Nationwide and international delivery available
• Request smaller vehicle delivery if needed

How to Prepare, Maintain, and Install British Cedar Cladding:

Wastage Allowance:

• We advise over ordering by 10%. Our British cedar is quality checked and graded standard and better grade.
• No more than 10% of the boards may contain workable naturally occurring defects such as minor surface splits, end splits, and even occasional dead knot holes. In no more than 10% of timber received is acceptable. Sound regular knots and aforementioned defects are characteristic of British cedar. As long as 10% waste is allowed for, runs will not need to be jointed.

Fixing Types:

All screws, nails, bolts, and metallic accessories that come into contact with this product must be corrosion-resistant. We recommend:

• Stainless steel

If fixings other than stainless steel are used, there is a risk of permanent spotting and corrosion stains appearing on the surface. This is due to naturally occurring acidic oils.

Should I Use Screws or Nails for Fixing?

• British Western Red Cedar cladding can be fastened using annular ring shank nails or lost head nails for a more discreet appearance. Screws are also suitable. Fixings should sit flush with the surface; avoid countersinking or punching below the surface to prevent splits and head pull-through.

What Size Screws or Nails Do I Need?

• Ring shank or lost head nails should be a minimum diameter of 2.0mm.
• Screws should be a minimum diameter of 3.5mm – pre-drill pilot holes 2/3rds of shank diameter to minimize the risk of splitting.
• Minimum length of nails and screws should be the depth of the cladding plus at least 25mm.

Installing UK Western Red Cedar Cladding:

• British cedar may be supplied green (wet), this is a species in a low movement class which can be fitted whilst green (moisture 20% or more). If being fitted whilst green, fixing centres must not exceed 450mm. If being fitted to extreme environments like saunas, the timber should be stickered air drying until moisture content is below 10%, achievable usually in 4 weeks.
• Fixing through the face is most secure.
• If the board is below 100mm in width, insert one centrally placed fixing where the board crosses a batten.
• If the board width ranges from 100mm to 200mm wide, insert two fixings where the board crosses a batten, positioning the fixings approximately 25mm to 50mm from the board edges.
• Cladding profiles with hidden nail recesses exceeding 100mm in width should have one fixing inserted into the face spaced approx. 25 – 50mm from the groove and another fixing inserted at an angle into the hidden fixing recess next to the tongue.
• It is not recommended to completely hide the fixings. Instead, ensure your cladding is securely and properly fitted by following this guidance.
• Battens external cladding is fitted to should be treated to protect your structure from moisture.
• Cladding should be secured to battens. Battens can be drilled secure to a brick wall using a 6mm masonry drill bit and matching screw plugs. Battens can also be screwed using pilot holes into plywood sheets.
• Do not secure cladding directly to plywood or sheet materials.
• Exposed end grain of boards should be protected with either trims, metal capping, or end grain sealant.
• Optional: Leave a 175mm gap between the ground and the cladding to prevent the bottoms of the boards from being exposed to ground-level moisture, dust, and general splatter.
• For horizontally installed cladding, battens should be vertically installed.
• For vertically installed cladding, battens should be horizontally installed.
• Fixing centres should be a maximum of 600mm apart, or 450mm if cladding is fitted green.
• Batten material should have the same service life as the cladding being chosen. We advise battens used are graded and are pressure treated.
• Minimum batten or lath dimensions should be 50 x 38mm or 50 x 25mm if being counter battened.
• L-shaped trims are intended for use on external and internal corners, as well as door and window surrounds. L-shaped trims are also used to achieve straight horizontal and vertical lines where minute differences in cut cladding length would be otherwise noticeable.
• In the absence of L-shaped trims, it is also possible to miter joint two pieces of planed square edge timber together. PSE can be created with an on-site table saw, cutting edges on a 45° angle, edge gluing, and pinning secure.
• Do not apply oils, stains, preservatives or paints if your timber is wet or moist; wait until suitably dry. To prevent evaporating internal moisture forcing any coating back to the surface, creating undesired splotches.
• If staggering runs together, ensure they are jointed on battens and also edge glued together to prevent separation and end grain water splotching.
• Do not stagger green timber.

Cavities:

• A cavity ventilation barrier of 10mm or more is required to prevent long-term moisture build-up. Fixing your cedar cladding to battens as per the above guidance will achieve this.
• Metal vermin mesh should be fitted at all cavity entrances.
• Optional: A breather membrane to be fitted to ply / brick wall battens are secured to, for added moisture protection, (is essential in saunas).

Maintenance:

• Applying preservatives to externally installed western red cedar is optional. In order to enhance the natural appearance and to delay the silvering process, we advise using a quality translucent UV protection oil such Owatrol Textrol Hes Clear or for a more cost-effective oil use Osmo 420 Clear. These products will slow the weathering/silvering process. Reapply every 2 – 3 years to maintain enhanced natural appearance indefinitely.
• If your species is vulnerable to fungal attack, we advise mixing Owatrol VC175 Mould Killer, a powerful internal and external anti-fungal additive, mixable with any oil, varnish lacquer, wood stain or paint. Simply mix with your preferred coating for lasting protection. Note: British western red cedar is not vulnerable to fungal attack; it naturally resists fungus.
• Once your cladding has eventually silvered, you may like the silver colour as many customers do. Some customers achieve this faster by applying weathered aged wood accelerator for a unique and sought after natural worn aesthetic.
• If you want to revive your timber once silvered off, there are numerous solutions that will bring your timber back. Depending on how weathered your wood is, you may be able to apply wood stain straight onto it. Try sampling a small section to see.
• If your wood is heavily weathered, we advise using a power washer after scrubbing the wood with a mixture of water and bleach. Though labor-intensive, this process is cost-effective. Ensure you wear appropriate personal protective equipment. This method is also effective for removing algae, mildew, and fungus. After cleaning, apply protective oils, lacquer, and stains for long-lasting protection and satisfaction with your wood. Do not power wash softwoods with a finished depth of less than 18mm. Avoid positioning the water jet close enough to damage the timber.

Storage:

• Additional drying time may be required depending on your application.
• British cedar is a low movement class species suitable for installing whilst green (wet) as long as it is not going straight into a sauna or other extreme environment, such as a hot summer's day.
• Do not apply oils, stains, or preservatives until suitably dried.
• Please contact us before delivery to ensure you are prepared. If anything is not right, submit a complaint immediately, and we will be happy to assist.
• On hot summer days you should not fit green timber of any kind. Make sure direct intense sunlight and heat is not making contact with your green timber whilst in storage, to avoid boards from crimping.
• It is advised to store your timber either indoors or outside under ventilated and weighed-down tarpaulin sheets and/or in a shaded area where the elements cannot reach your wood.
• There is no need to sticker your timber if it is received dry; it can be stored stacked neatly under cover until ready for use.
• Timber should be stored raised above ground.
• If you decide to sticker your order, the sticks for drying on-site must be clean and ideally planed to minimize marks. Any faint marks caused by stickering will fade away over time.
• If you wish to dry your green cedar, sticker every layer and allow it to acclimatize to the area it is being fitted to until the moisture content is below 16%, or 10% for saunas. Use a wood moisture meter. This can take 2 – 4 weeks. The process can be greatly sped up if stickered indoors with fans, slightly above room temperature. Ensure moisture can escape the room.