(TABLE OF CONTENTS)

• INTRODUCTION
• BASIC SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY
• ENGINE
• RADIATOR
• STEERING GEARBOX
• TRANSMISSION
• FLOOR BOARD
• FIREWALL
• CLUTCH PARTS
• SEATS
• FUEL TANK
• MAIN FRAME ASSEMBLY
• FUEL LINES
• REAR AXLE
• BRAKE SYSTEM
• REAR WHEELS
• DRIVE CHAIN
• FRONT AXLE
• STEERING SYSTEM
• EXHAUST SYSTEM
• HOOD
• SIDE CURTAINS

Sample section:

INTRODUCTION (significantly abbreviated)

The Pocher Fiat 130HP was the first 1/8 scale Pocher Classic Kit produced.  It was code named K70.  Initially, there also was an assembled version available code named A70 (A for assembled, K for kit).  Compared to the Alfa Romeo, Rolls Royce, Mercedes, and the Bugatti, the Fiat is much simpler.  Although the part count is close to 1,000, most of these parts are on the two drive chains.  The actual part count is much less.  But nevertheless, the assembly process can present some unique challenges.  When properly assembled and painted, the Pocher Fiat can become a museum quality model.

DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF THE FIAT (5 versions)

There are 5 versions of the Pocher Fiat:

• The vintage version UPC issued K70 Fiat
• The Pocher/Tyco issued K70 (by far, the most abundant version)
• The K77
• The K88
• The A70

Since the Pocher/Tyco K70 is the most popular, I will discuss how the other versions differ from the K70.

VINTAGE VERSION/UPC ISSUED FIAT

The earliest vintage version K70 Fiat comes in a plain yellow box with a photo of the model in the middle.  Inside the box, the parts are neatly arranged in a blue tray that is in the shape of various parts.  Some of the parts have to be removed from the tree/sprues just to fit in this blue tray.  The tires are already fitted on the rims.  Most of the metal parts are packed in small clear plastic jewel boxes.  Some of these kits were marked with the distributor name UPC.  In certain ways, the vintage version Fiat is in fact the best.  The vintage version differs from the later K70 in the following ways:

• Solid brass clutch parts (3 extra parts that were changed to plastic in the later kits).
• Solid brass radiator hose connectors (4 extra parts that became plastic in the later kits).
• Machined solid brass hand pump with a solid brass handle.  Later kits have a plastic handle.
• Some (not all) have Pre-assembled drive chains that are very nicely done.  If not, the chains are assembled using different parts.  There are small metal end caps for the pins that hold the links in place.  Later chains ask you to hammer the pins which cause them to split open to hold the links in place.
• Pre-riveted side curtains (very nicely done).
• Pre-soldered tie rod.
• Pre-assembled steering control rod.
• 3 Stamped brass “Fiat” name plates instead of the stickers.
• A simpler Fiat radiator emblem (later kits are better).
• Brass leaf springs instead of the blackened steel ones found on the later kits.
• Radiator cap is pre-attached to the radiator shell.
• Brass engine valve push rods that are pre-attached to the rocker arms.
• Radiator has no flat area for the “F-2” sticker.  The kit provides you with a stencil so the F-2 can be painted on the radiator grid, just like on the real car.  Later kits have grid “F-2” stickers to be applied over a flat area on the radiator.
• Brass flywheel ring instead of aluminum.
• Different brake cables.
• Pre-formed front damper brackets (later kits require bending from a pre-cut piece of brass).
• Pre-assembled steering gearbox output shaft and gear.
• Individually molded plastic engine gears (no flash to remove).
• Steering wheel hand lever handles are pre-attached. 
• Most engine parts are molded on smaller trees.
• Floor tank handle is pre-soldered.
• Smaller brass wheel bolts (later kits are better).
• Black screws instead of brass (later kits are better).
• A very simple assembly manual that is extremely hard to read (K70 is better; K88 is much better).
• Kit includes an all metal wrench/nut driver (later kits have plastic handles).

K77

The K77 is a very rare kit.  It has the same box as the K70, except for the small change in kit number.  The two metal parts flaps are also marked “K77”.  The only difference is the yellow wheels are now molded in light brown, and the floor boards are made of the same light brown plastic.  The wheels have the same wood grain (same molds) as that on the K70, but made of the same plastic as that on the K88.  Other than the wheel color, all other parts are identical to the K70.  There are NO parts starting with the number 77xxx, meaning that no new parts were introduced. 

The K77 does NOT have the added spare tires or the new seats as that on the K88.

K88

The change from K70 to K88 was extensive.  Although these two kits may look almost identical initially, they are in fact quite different.  Compared to the K70, many of the K88 metal parts bags contained different parts; or different number of the same parts (although most bags have the same ID number).  The changes from K70 to K88 are the following:

• Obviously, the brown wheels instead of yellow.  The brown wheels are in fact all new parts made from new molds, and NOT just the same wheels molded in different color.  Whereas the K70 yellow wheels have molded wood grain, the brown wheels DO NOT.  The spokes are also thicker and more rounded near the hub.  On the K88 box photo, the model looks as if it has real wooden wheels with red stripes on the spokes.  Unfortunately the wheels in the kit look nothing like this.  They are just plain brown plastic wheels.  No stencils or stickers are provided for the red strips either.  Another difference is that the brown rear wheels have 12 additional inner brass bolts, whereas these inner bolts are molded plastic on the yellow wheels.  Hence the K88 comes with more brass bolts in bag 310.
• Obviously, the two spare tires and the spare tire rack.  The K88 comes with 6 identical tires whereas the K70 comes with different front and rear tires.  The K88 tires look similar to the K70 rear tires, but they are in fact cast from all new molds.  The K88 tires have taller side walls, making the whole model look taller.
• Rear of main frame has an extra screw hole for attaching the spare tire rack.   Therefore, the main frame on the K88 and K70 are NOT interchangeable.
• New improved seats.  This is probably the best improvement made.  Whereas the old kits have very poorly molded one-piece seats, the K88 have the new plush soft rubber cushion that fits inside a glossy seat frame.
• Seat base (Tree 28) is molded in black instead of red.
• Hand pump is moved to the side of the firewall instead of on the seat base.  This is the correct location on the real car seen in the reference photos.
• Two additional larger “F-2” stickers for the hood.  These stickers are NOT included with the K70, and they are not the same sticker as that on the fuel tank. The K70 has “F-2” marking on the radiator and fuel tank only. (Please note, I was able to reproduce these two hood markings and made them into water slide decals for your K70.  Please see the separate listing in my eBay Store).
• 6 Countersink screws for the hood hinge.  The K70 uses standard screws which will prevent the hood from closing all the way (more on this problem later).
• Right bottom rear corner of the hood panel is now square.  The K70 had a cut out for the fuel line entering the engine.  The fuel line now goes through a new hole on the firewall, as seen in the reference photos.
• K70 leaf springs are slightly too long.  This was fixed on the K88 (shorter leaf springs).
• Improved front damper, tie rod, and steering control rod.  These are assembled using different parts, and hence causing significant differences between the K70 and K88.
• K88 has a longer steering shaft and steering shaft sleeve (almost 2cm longer).
• Steering wheel control lever brackets are made of brass (a big improvement).
• New pressed-brass parts sheet that contains the spare tire rack, tie rod connectors, and the steering wheel control lever brackets (Bag 303).
• Single piece front cross member with no holes for the engine hand crank.  On the K70, the front cross member is made of 3 parts with a brass collar in the middle for the engine hand crank.
• One-piece steering control arm 88107 (it is 2 separate parts on the K70).
• A new brass collar 88135-322-O is added to the upper tip of the steering column, thus preventing the steering wheel from wobbling.
• Radiator cap is screwed into the radiator, thus preventing it from detaching easily.  The radiator now has 3 nuts inside instead of two (extra one at the top center).  In the older kits, the radiator cap is only attached to the brass shell.
• Thin fuel lines to be made by the modeler using the same copper wires found on the other Pocher kits (the fuel lines on the K70 are thicker pre-formed brass wires that are out of scale.  They have all been deleted in the K88).
• Smaller fuel line valves/connectors 88134.
• New Tree 12 that contains a new building jig for the chain.  This jig is very helpful.  Unfortunately the K70 has no building jig for the chain. 
• The rear wheel brake drum/sprocket wheel is now molded in red on the new Tree 12, whereas they used to be black on the K70’s Tree 39.  The large fuel tank end cap is also on the new tree 12, whereas it used to be on Tree 28.
• The rear brake drum/sprocket wheel is much larger than the K70’s.  The K88 drive chain is longer by 4 links to accommodate the larger sprocket wheel; hence the K88 has more parts to build the longer chain.
• Floor is made of the light brown plastic instead of the brittle golden brown plastic.
• Clear plastic supports instead of red.
• 5 more brass screws and nuts.
• New assembly manual that is significantly improved and much easier to read.  This is one of the best improvements made.  A scan of this assembly manual is on this CD.  In fact, if you are building the K70, I would highly recommend that you use this assembly manual in addition.

Over all, the K88 is a much more accurate representation of the 1907 Fiat 130HP now on display at the Turin car museum (the car seen in most reference photos).  Obviously, the K70 is significantly different from the car in the reference photo (no spare tires, yellow wheels, red seat base, hand pump in the wrong location, no F-2 on the hood).  It is hard to believe how Pocher can miss the mark by so much in designing the original K70.  This leads to the suspicion that perhaps the original K70 is based on another 1907 Fiat, and NOT the one seen in the reference photos.  The biggest support for this argument is the F-2 marking on the hood.  Since the K70 already has it for the fuel tank, it could have been easily produced for the hood as well, but it was not.  Another big reason is the hand pump location.  Since the model already has this part, why place it on the side of the seat when it is clearly supposed to be on the side of the firewall. 

A70 FULLY ASSEMLBED VERSION

Although the A70 is considered “Factory built”, the built quality is only average.  Any modeler with moderate skills would be able to do a better job.  The biggest disappointment is that the entire model is built without doing any painting, and without much correction for the poor parts fit.  This is also true for the other Pocher factory built models (A71, A72, A73, and A74). 

BOX ART DIFFERENCES (see photos)
The vintage version Fiat is packed a plain yellow box with a print/photo of the model pasted in the middle. The K70 box is the typical Pocher design of the drawn side view on a plain white background. I’ve heard the K77 box is identical to the K70’s, except for the kit number. The K88 box has a photo of the model at an angle. The K88 box is also made of a much thicker cardboard compared to the others.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR COLLECTORS
Although the plastic trees may appear identical on the various versions, they are NOT necessarily the same. The brass parts in the vintage version K70 later ended up as molded plastic parts on Trees 25 and 26. Many of the parts were moved around on the K88. For example, the rear wheel inner plates are on the new K88 Tree 12 whereas they used to be molded together with the rear axle on the K70. The assembly manual is also very different. Many of the metal parts with identical bag number in fact contain DIFFERENT parts, or different quantity of parts. These bags are NOT interchangeable between the K70 and K88. The firewall and hood is also different. Therefore, parts between the K70, K88, and vintage version cannot be interchanged unless they have been carefully checked to be the same.

BUILDING THE POCHER FIAT
At first glance, the Pocher Fiat may be much easier compared to the other Pocher Classic kits. But nevertheless, the assembly process can present some unique challenges. This DVD was created to assist you in the building process. It contains all the parts photos to help you identify the correct part during assembly, and hundreds of assembly photos to guide you along the way. The written Supplemental Instruction contains hundreds of building tips, as well as cautions on where parts are likely to break, places where adjustments must be made, and places where assembly mistakes are likely to occur.

The assembly manual of the vintage version Fiat and the K70 are extremely hard to read. The K88 assembly manual was much improved. If you are building the K70, I would advice that you use the K88 manual in addition. A scan of the K88 manual is included on this DVD-ROM.

THE POCHER PARTS IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM
Pocher parts are identified by 3 sets of numbers or symbols. The first 5 digit is the part number, the next 2 or 3 digit is the bag number or tree number, the last letter tells you the color or type of material the part is made of. The first 2 digit of the part number also tells you the original kit this part came from. For example, those part numbers in the K88 that starts with 88… indicate that it is a new part made for the K88 kit. All part numbers that starts with 70… indicate it was carried over from the K70. For example the engine block on both K70 and K88 is 70501, indicating this is the same part in both kits. However, the front wheel on the K70 is 70508-21-L; whereas on the K88 it is 88508-21-L, indicating this is a new and different part for the K88.

STEP-BY-STEP SUPPLEMENTAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION (sample section)

BASIC SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY

After the main frame is assembled, the other components are then attached from above and below. This includes the fuel line, the brake system, the rear axle, the front axle, the steering system, the exhaust system, the hood, and the side curtains. This is the best order of assembly, and also the organization of this Supplemental Instruction.

Each section is also labeled with the corresponding drawing numbers in the K88 assembly manual. If you are building the K70, I would highly recommend that you also use the K88 manual in addition. A high quality scanned copy is on this DVD. You can enlarge these scan many times on your computer screen and still see the drawings clearly.

ENGINE (K88 Drawing 1)

Because of the poor parts fit, all plastic parts must be test fitted first, and then spray painted, and then reassembled. Parts that will be the same color can be glued together first, and spray painted as a single part (i.e. the magneto parts). Because of this, the building procedure will be different depending on how you want to paint your engine. For example, if you are going to paint the all the intake parts the same color, then they can all be glued together first and then spray painted as a single part. But if you want different parts in different colors, then each part must be test fitted first, and then spray painted individually, and then glued together. Because of the poor parts fit, test fitting before painting is a MUST. The engine section is organized into the following 3 sub-sections:

• TEST FITTING THE ENGINE PARTS
• PAINTING THE ENGINE
• ENGINE RE-ASSEMBLY

The engine assembly may look rather straight forward at first, but there are some areas that require clarification or adjustments. The following is a list of engine parts to be test fitted, and the problems you may encounter:

SIMILAR LOOKING PARTS
There are 3 very similar looking square plates 70674, 70672, and 70540. One way to tell them apart is by quantity. There is one, two and four respectively.

Another 3 similar parts are the plastic circles 70670, 70671, and 70684. All 3 parts are on Tree 20. 70670 is the magneto gear retainer, 70671 is the larger middle gear retainer, and 70684 is used on the steering wheel later.

UPPER AND LOWER BLOCKS
The upper and lower engine block will fit either correctly or reversed. One way to remember is that the side with the prongs on the upper block is on the same side as the side with one engine mount near the middle.

The engine is mounted to the main frame by the 4 support arms on the lower block. The holes are very tight, and there is a risk of breaking the screw later. To make assembly easier later, thread the holes at the end now. Threading the holes can be done by using the Melting Method. Install a 70301 screw partially, and push it in the rest of the way with a hot soldering iron, and then remove the screw. The thread lines are now “molded” inside the hole.

REAR CENTER SHAFT SUPPORT CLARIFICATION
IMPORTANT: Notice the red rear center shaft support 70568-22-R will fit either correctly or upside down. On the inner side, there is a mounting tab next to the hole. The drawing shows the mounting tab above the hole. At first, this may look like a mistake, since it causes the rear hole to be lower than the front hole, but it is in fact CORRECT. The engine center shaft must pass through the engine in a slanted manner. This way, the front end will align with the brass collar (K70), and the rear side will align with the clutch parts. 70568 can be glued to the engine block first, and painted together.

ENGINE BOTTOM SUPPORT PLATES 70549/70550-25-A
IMPORTANT: Be careful when removing the rear support plate 70549 from Tree 25, as the two mounting pins look like they are part of the tree/sprue. Be careful not to accidentally cut off the mounting pins. Trim the attaching points for a good fit.

The two engine bottom support plates must be glued to the lower engine block. In looking at the few reference photos available (on this DVD), these two plates appear to be main frame cross members/engine supports, hence they are painted red.

Somehow, the upper edges of these two plates are slanted. It seems to suggest that they should be glued on in a slanted position. However, the reference photo shows that they are vertical, so it is best that they be vertical when looking from the side.

Notice the mounting pins are off center. These two plates should be glued on in the direction that would allow them to be touching the engine mount next to it. Sand the joining surface flat so the plate can fit flush to the engine mount without gap.

ENGINE BLOCK BOTTOM DRAIN PLUG 70547-18-A
The engine block bottom drain plug fits in place with two pins. However, there is also a center screw. The problem is that the 70301 screw is longer than the drain plug, but there is NO screw hole on the engine block. The 70301 screw is NOT strong enough to tap a hole by itself, so installing the screw will only “lift” the drain plug off the engine, and cause damage. To prevent this, drill an extra hole on the engine block between the two existing holes. DO NOT install the screw without first drilling a hole. Otherwise, the drain plug will be damaged. The screw should be installed after painting.

The screw hole in the drain plug is very tight. Enlarge this hole slightly to prevent breaking the screw.

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS 70541-18-A
Test fit the 4 exhaust manifolds 70541-18-A to the engine block. Trim the joining surface so the parts fit together without gaps. The exhaust manifold plates 70540 can be glued to the exhaust manifolds if they are to be painted the same color.

IMPORTANT: Notice the exhaust manifold plates 70540-18-A are NOT squares. They measure 10mm x 9mm. The longer side must be vertical. The mounting surface is also rectangular. Although there are 4 parts of 70540-18-A, notice the molded nuts/bolts patterns are different. There is really no way of knowing which order would be correct.

RADIATOR HOSE CONNECTORS
Test fit the 4 radiator hose connectors (3 “T” pipes and one “L” pipe) to the exhaust manifold parts. DO NOT force these parts together. Otherwise, the pin may get stuck and break off inside. Trim the plastic until the fit is just right. On the vintage version K70 kits, these 4 parts are made of brass so breakage of the pin is not the problem; instead, cracking the hole is the problem.

IMPORTANT: Notice the “L” water pipe 70591 is NOT a symmetrical part, one side is slightly longer. The longer side MUST be inserted into the exhaust manifold. The “L” pipe will fit either way, but if it is installed wrong, it will be shorter than the “T” pipes, and the radiator hose will not align well. The difference is very small so this is a potential mistake that can easily happen.

One reference photo shows these pipes are made of copper, so they should be painted accordingly. All parts should be test fitted, painted, and then reassembled. Since the radiator hose connectors are thin and prone to breaking, final assembly should be as late as possible.

RADIATOR HOSE
IMPORTANT: Because of the narrow space between the 4 radiator hose connectors, the radiator hoses must be installed at the same time as the “T” and “L” pipes during final assembly. Once everything is glued in place, it will be very difficult to fit the radiator hose in place, especially between the cylinders that are closer together. Forcing the radiator hose in place has a very high risk of breaking the “T” and “L” pipes.

The orange radiator hose provided in the kit is of very poor quality and will likely harden over time (if it has not already hardened). Therefore, DO NOT use the orange hose, and use a substitute instead. Small gauge microphone cord or medium RCA cables work great as 1/8 scale radiator hoses.

The length of each radiator hose must be cut EXACTLY. If they are too long, the radiator hose will be pushing on the “T” pipes and may break them. If they are too short, there will be a gap. The exact length is as follows:

• 13.5mm between the 4th and 3rd cylinder.
• 18mm between the 3rd and 2nd cylinder.
• 13mm between the 2nd and 1st cylinder.

EXHAUST PIPES 70539-18-A X4
Trim the mold lines from the 4 plastic exhaust pipes 70539-18-A. On the sides of the plastic exhaust pipes 70539-18-A near the bottom, there is a small bump (about 17mm from the bottom tip). This bump is NOT flash. Do not trim this bump off completely. It is used to align the bottom plates 70542 (see next section).

At this time, also check the fit of the 4 exhaust pipes into the big aluminum exhaust pipe. The holes on the aluminum pipe are slightly too small and will need to be enlarged. The 4 plastic exhaust pipes must be fit easily into the big aluminum exhaust pipe. Also trim away any aluminum flash around the 4 holes.

The 4 exhaust pipes should be test fitted at this time only. For the best alignment, they should be attached to the engine much later on during assembly of the big aluminum exhaust pipe.

EXHAUST PIPE BOTTOM UNION PLATES 70542-18-A
The 4 bottom plates 70542-18-A are too small to fit on the 4 plastic pipes. Enlarge the center hole until it fits just tight. Notice the 2 sides of the plate are different. One side has molded bolts and the other side has molded nuts. All 4 union plates should be installed so they are all the same. Rotate the bottom plate so the nuts/bolt pattern is symmetrical.

On the sides of the plastic exhaust pipes 70539-18-A near the bottom, there is a small bump (about 17mm from the bottom tip). This small bump is where the bottom union plate 70542-18-A is supposed to be. On the finished model (and as shown in one of the reference photos), the height of these 4 plates should be near the main frame.

(Optional) One problem with the exhaust system parts is that the plastic pipes are simply inserted into the holes on the big aluminum exhaust pipe. This ends up being a poor joint with nothing to hide it. One option is to move the union plates all the way down. Glue the union plates to the aluminum exhaust pipe first (right over the holes), and the insert the plastic exhaust pipes during final assembly. This way, the joint will be hidden by the plates.

ROCKER ARMS 70545-18-A
The mounting pin is way too big. DO NOT force the rocker arm into the hole on the engine. Otherwise there is a very high risk of breaking the pin. Enlarge the hole on the engine until the fit is just right. In this case, it is better to enlarge the hole rather than thin down the pin, because the grey plastic is soft, and the pin is already small. Thinning down the pin will increase the risk of breaking it.

K70/K88: Notice the rocker arm/valve stem connector 70548-18-A is NOT a symmetrical part. The side with the hexagon faces UP. If the rocker arm and the connector are to be one color, these two parts can be glued together before painting. The pin on the rocker arm is quite long, leaving little room inside the connector for the valve stem 70065. Trim the rocker arm pin slightly. This pin is also slightly too big. Since it is already prone to breaking, enlarge the hole in the connector. Be sure the connector is pointing directly down, and not slanted to one side.

The rocker arms are large, but only mounted to the engine by a thin pin. The rocker arms are extremely prone to breaking. Test fit the rocker arm parts now, and assemble the rocker arms as late as possible. Final assembly of the rocker arms must be done with the valve stem 70065-324-F and valve spring parts at the same time.

INTAKE MANIFOLD PARTS
Test fit the two intake manifolds 70546-18-A to the engine block. Trim the joining surface so the parts will fit without gaps. Notice the “U” pipe 70673-20-A has a center hole for the carburetor. Obviously, this hole must face down.

The two plates 70672-20-A have punch marks that should be carefully removed. These two plates can be glued to the intake manifolds if they are to be painted the same color. They should be centered in the mounting area.

The main difficulty here is the spacing of the two intake manifolds. The two intake manifolds are connected by the “U” pipe 70673-20-A. Since the length of the “U” pipe is fixed, this pipe also dictates the position of the two intake manifolds. DO NOT glue the two intake manifolds to the engine without the “U” pipe. Otherwise, the “U” pipe may not reach from one hole to the other exactly.

If the intake manifold parts (plus the carburetor) are to be painted the same color, they should all be glued together first, and then spray painted as a single part.

CARBURETOR
The carburetor parts fit poorly. Trim the plastic until all parts fit together without gaps. The most important point is that the finished carburetor must be perfectly vertical when looking from the side and looking from the front. This is easier said than done.

The carburetor upper plate 70674-20-A is a very poor fitting part. Notice the two sides are different. There is one side with 4 molded bolts, and the other side with two ridges. The assembly manual appears to show the side with the 4 bolts facing up. Then there is also the question of how to orient the bottom ridges. The K88 assembly manual engine photo shows the ridges fore/back. Even so, this part still fits poorly, as the center hole is too big, and the bottom side does not really fit with the carburetor. Considering these problems, this plate should be carefully glued to the carburetor, in a perfectly horizontal position when looking from the side, and square with the carburetor when looking from the top.

The entire carburetor must be glued to the upper 70673 pipe. This joint is difficult because the carburetor MUST be perfectly vertical when looking from the side and looking from the front. If the carburetor and the “U” plastic pipe are to be painted the same color, this joint can be glued together before painting. This joint fits poorly so it will have to be puttied. Check again that the carburetor will be perfectly vertical.

The brass carburetor barrel 70130-322-O fits tightly on the plastic pin. To avoid breaking the pin, trim the pin slightly and then use glue if necessary.

MAGNETO/DISTRIBUTOR 70666 to 70668
If the magneto parts are to be painted the same color, they can all be glued together first, and then spray painted as a single part. Again, trim the joining surfaces until the parts fit without gaps.

Test fit the 3 gears in front of the engine, and you will notice the distributor/magneto gear is too far back by about 1mm. The entire magneto should be moved forward. This can be accomplished by elongating the magneto mounting holes to the rear, or trimming off the two pins and realign by hand.

IMPORTANT: When mounting the magneto to the engine, the magneto must be vertical and NOT leaning outward when looking from the front. Otherwise, the magneto will hit the hood and prevent the hood from closing all the way.

SPARK PLUGS
The spark plugs WILL fit all the way into the hole on the engine by applying a slight force. However, the brass cap in front of the spark plug is too long and will not fit all the way in. This hole can be very carefully and slowly drilled deeper until the brass cap can fit all the way in. The spark plug tip can be painted white.

PLASTIC GEARS
K70/K88: When removing the 3 gears from the tree/sprue, be sure all flash are cleaned up well, especially between the gear tooth.

TINY WING PLUGS 70543-18-A
These 4 tiny plugs are inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder. The pin has additional bumps on it to help the plug snap in place. The problem is that these bumps will likely cause you to break the pin trying to insert it. It is best to trim off these bumps, and glue the wing plug in place.

TEST FITTING THE METAL PARTS
IMPORTANT: Polish all brass parts before assembly.

CENTER METAL ROD 70213-361-O
The center metal rod is the solid 3mm metal rod measuring 18cm long. Test fit this metal rod through the two holes to make sure it can turn freely. Again, the rear hole is lower than the forward hole, so this rod will pass through the engine at a slight angle.

FRONT HAND CRANK
IMPORTANT: K70: Because the K70 has an extra brass collar 70107 between the engine and the hand crank, this collar must be in place before the front hand crank lever 70569-22-R is installed. Notice Bag 356 has two very similar looking brass collars. 70107 is the one with two identical holes. The K88 does not have this brass collar.

The front hand crank lever must fit tightly to both the center metal rod 70213, and the handle 70125-322-O. The fit is very tightly. To avoid breaking the parts and minimize stress on the plastic, enlarge the hole until the fit is just tight, and then use glue. 70569-22-R should be spray painted before the brass parts are attached.

CARBURETOR BRASS BARREL 70130-322-O
This part fits tightly on the plastic pin. To reduce the risk of breaking the plastic pin during fitting, trim down the plastic pin slightly.

Once installed, it is almost impossible to remove without breaking the plastic pin. Therefore, final fitting should be done after painting. 70130 should be vertical with the carburetor.

K70: The fuel line 70226 attaches to this carburetor brass barrel, but there is no hole for fitting the fuel line. Therefore, a small hole should be drilled opposite the mounting hole (and slightly lower). This hole should allow the fuel line to be inserted (2mm diameter).

K88: The fuel line 74207 on the side of the frame ends by inserting into a hole on the firewall. In looking at the reference photo and K70, this fuel line should attach to the carburetor brass barrel. Therefore, a small hole should be drilled opposite the mounting hole. This hole should allow the fuel line to be inserted (1mm diameter).

“U” METAL PIPE/IGNITION LOOM 70203
The “U” metal pipe and ignition loom is pre-soldered together as one part.

IMPORTANT: The “U” metal tube 70203-305-O may not reach the two holes on the cylinders exactly. If forced in place, the stress on the plastic is sure to crack the plastic holes during assembly or later on. To reduce stress on the plastic, bend the metal tube until the two ends match up with the two holes EXACTLY. When looking from the side, the two ends should also be parallel to each other. If not, bend the metal tube accordingly.

The two plastic holes on the cylinders are also too small to fit the metal tube. The metal tube may look like it fits at first, but it is not fitted all the way in. The plastic holes must be enlarged so the metal tube can fit all the way in. When looking from the side, the metal tube should be vertical.

The metal tube must be glued in place during final assembly.

ADDING EXTRA DETAILS (Optional)
The following details are simple to add. They will enhance the look of the engine.

CORRECTING THE IGNITION LOOM (Optional)
The routing of the ignition wires is very strange on the Pocher fiat. In looking at the reference photos, the ignition loom is really too short. The correct routing is with a longer ignition loom that is curved on the front end. The reproduce this, the stock ignition loom will have to be de-soldered (very easy to do). A longer pipe that is bent on the front end can be substituted. Three more exit holes can be drilled along the way (see engine reference photos).

ADDING DETAIL TO THE “U” METAL TUBE 70203 (Optional)
In looking at the reference photos (cut-away drawing and the Black&White engine photo), there are clearly two rubber hoses on the “U” pipe. To simulate this, slip a 1cm length of rubber tube onto the “U” pipe, and add hose clamps. The hose clamps can be made using a thin strip of aluminum tape.

The same reference photos show that the “U” pipe is really a “Y” pipe. There is actually another section at the bottom center going downward. In looking at another reference photo that shows the right side of the car, a black hose (likely a radiator hose) can be seen going from here toward the front. This is likely the radiator hose that returns coolant back to the radiator.

RADIATOR RETURN PIPE
Notice the engine only has one connection to the radiator (on the top). On the real car, there obviously has to be another connection so the coolant can return to the radiator. I can find no answer to how it is so, therefore I can only guess. As explained above, the “U” metal pipe on the right side of the engine is actually a “Y” pipe, with another connection below. One of the reference photo shows another pipe below this going back to the engine (going under the front bottom plate/cross member). Perhaps this goes back to the radiator. Another possibility is the two empty holes on the left side of the engine. Perhaps Pocher left out some parts here (there is nothing attached to the two empty holes on the left side of the engine).