ATTENTION!
Failure to install this radiator assembly without strictly adhering to the following procedures will render void the Radiator Manufacturer’s warranty.

Installation Instructions

Part A

Installing A New Radiator (Replacing old, faulty, or damaged radiator existing in vehicle)

Step 1:   Prior to removing the existing radiator, the cooling system must be inspected for evidence of stray/electric current (this is only possible when the cooling system is still in operation.)

Stray/electric current causes a highly destructive from of corrosion, electrolysis.  This is caused by the passage of even the smallest (0.03 volt) current through the coolant in the system. 

The resulting fast acting corrosion attacks not only the radiator and heater cores, but can also cause severe and expensive damage to alloy cylinder heads, water pumps, thermostats, and other components and parts including the auto transmission.

This condition occurs within the cooling system mainly due to current seeking an easy path through the coolant to ground.  Typically stray/electric current is the result of accident damage to the vehicle,

poor installation of electrical components and faults occurring in electrical components.

To test for stray/electric current, use an analogue voltmeter with sensitivity of 0.03 volts or a stray current detector by first placing the positive lead directly into the coolant (through the filler neck on the radiator),

or in the overflow bottle (for a closed system), making sure that the terminal is not in contact with any surrounding metal surface. Then attach the negative lead to the battery earth (negative terminal), and switch on all of the electrical systems, one at a time.

First with the engine running and then repeating the process with the engine turned off.  A reading of more than 0.03 volts or a positive (red light) indicates a damaging current is likely to be present in the cooling system.

This procedure will enable you to establish by process of elimination the source of any current.  It is imperative that the source of any current traveling through the coolant is located, repaired or replaced prior to installing a new radiator assembly.

Note:  Additional electric accessories can be the source of stray/electric current.  If additional accessories have been fitted or repairs undertaken, repeat stray current check.

DO NOT PROCEED IF UNABLE TO ESTABLISH THE SOURCE OF ANY DETECTED CURRENT.  CONSULT A QUALIFIED AUTO ELECTRICIAN FOR ASSISTANCE.

Step 2:  Completely drain the coolant from the system.

Step 3:  Fill the system with water and treat with quality alkaline cooling system flushing agent. Observe the instructions on the container, ensure that the vehicle’s heater is turned on and that the radiator overflow bottle is clean.

Step 4: Check components such as the radiator cap, hoses, clamps, thermostat, water pump and fans(s) for wear and current condition.

Step 5: Drain water from system and flush out with clean water.

Step 6:  Carefully remove the old radiator assembly and check mountings.

Step 7:  Correctly install the new radiator assembly – replace fault or worn components. Check vehicle service manual for any additional procedures applicable to radiator installation.

Step 8:  Fill system with clean water and perform stray/electric current test procedure as outlined in Step 1.  Proceed if result is negative.

Step 9:  Completely drain water from system.

Step 10:  Install the recommended coolant (type and dosage) for this vehicle as specified by the vehicle manufacturer’s service manual.  When using a concentrate inhibitor, use distilled or demineralized water.

ATTENTION!
Do not mix any coolant brands together.  Correct coolant selection and installation is essential to ensure maximum corrosion protection for all component parts within the engine cooling system.

Coolant/inhibitors are added to the cooling system for three reasons:

1. To increase the boiling and freezing point of the water.
2. To lubricate those moving parts of the engine that are in contact with water.
3. To provide a film barrier between the potentially corrosive water and the various types of metals founds within the engine and cooling system.

The inhibitor continually replaces the protective barrier as the corrosive elements of the water dissolve the barrier.  However, because this is a continual process,

the coolant/inhibitors become depleted after a time to the point where they no longer provide this protective coating.  Alkaline corrosion can begin on the inside of the radiator tubes

because the coolants/inhibitors from different manufacturers have different chemical compounds which may adversely react if mixed.  It is important not to create a chemical cocktail by mixing different brands of coolant/inhibitor.

Step 11:  Run vehicle engine up to normal operating temperature and inspect all components for leaks.

ATTENTION!
Do not remove the Radiator Cap