This is a two-speed Lucas DR3 motor, with the "reverse-parking" feature as found in prestige saloons such as Jaguar, Rover, Rolls, Bentley etc

This one is fitted with a gear-wheel giving a 150 degree sweep-angle.

I have often sold motors with a 120 degree gear for Jaguar MK2/MKII saloons.  These were fitted in motor type 75310.

But this is a 75361 and came with a 150 degree wheel. I think later models used the wider sweep. Maybe correct for S-types.

Please do some research to find what sweep you need.  I'll be listing a 75310 quite soon.

It is set up to park with the wire-rack in the "OUT" position.  This is to suit Right-hand drive models.

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I see many of these reverse-parking motors listed as "for Jaguar MK2",  which I know will only park properly on a LHD model.  They won't park properly on a RHD model.

Please be CAREFUL.

If you have already made this mistake contact me.  I can fix it.

I'll be listing one that parks with the wire-rack in the "IN" position for LHD models quite soon. 

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I have rewound the resistance overwind that generates the two-speed feature. These are usually time-expired because Lucas used cotton-covered wire.

I use Teflon coated resistance wire which is much more resistant to damp and decay than the original cotton-covered wire.

I have rewired the "flying lead" and parking-switch,  these are always in poor condition when I get them.

It's most important that the crank-pin on the big gear is in good order.  They often have a groove worn into the flat like the wheel on the left in the photo.  This is a weakness in the original design.

This can easily stop the wavy-washer rising up and down the crank-pin as is required.  When this happens the mechanism will jam and the motor will ream out the D-hole in the wavy-washer.  The motor will stop parking properly.

I replace/rebuild these crank-pins, so you will get one like the wheel on the right in the photo.

If you buy a used motor that has not been rebuilt, you have about a 50% chance that the mechanism will jam because of this problem.  It will be hard to get this fixed!

Bare-metal re-paint using correct black-winkle finish on the body.

It has been completely dismantled and electrically checked.  New carbon brushes are fitted. All bearings and bushes are in good order.

The unit is lubricated with a grease having good water-resisting properties.

The motor has been run on test, speed and current consumption were checked. These tests reveal any electrical or mechanical problem.

I have been restoring these motors for a few years now and usually sell them to classic car restorers and members of car-clubs.  I have the tools and test-equipment to ensure they are in full working condition.

And finally a note about "blast-cleaning".  A lot of motors listed here, look to me as if they have been "restored" by blasting with abrasive grit.  This is quick and leaves a "sparkly" finish.