This listing is for a new left and right satellite speaker terminal and matching wiring harness for a ProMedia 2.1 amplifier panel. If your Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system (built from 2000-present) has a broken speaker terminal(s) for the subwoofer's satellite speaker output, one of these new terminals can replace that. Before you order, please be sure you select the correct version. From the outside, the terminals look identical, but the internal harness is different. There are four common versions of ProMedia 2.1, as well as a rarer variant. Each version uses its own plug and cable harness to connect to the rest of the amplifier. If you order the wrong version, your kit will not fit. There are external clues to determine which version of ProMedia 2.1 you have. Please follow the instructions below before you order, so you select the correct harness & terminal option in this listing.
If the plastic black or red tabs are not broken, but you do not have sound, the problem is likely NOT with the speaker terminal itself. You may have a problem with the control pod's weak plug or a problem with the amplifier itself, or even the signal source. Note: if a speaker wire is inserted too far into the terminal, the terminal can grasp the plastic insulation rather than the tinned metal, and there will be no sound.
How to Determine Which Version ProMedia 2.1 You Have:
Step 1: If your amplifier has a rocker-type power switch on the back, it is the original version. Stop at step 1 and order the original, First Generation terminal kit, (either with or without a gasket for the amplifier panel). Disregard the color of the terminal's wires, which does not accurately help select your kit (Generation 1's wires were white, green and red; the new wires for the correct, Gen. 1 kit are yellow, black and red).
If your amplifier does not have a power switch on the back, go to step 2. Yours is one of three newer versions, which were built in 2012 or later.
Step 2: Does your preamplifier/volume control pod connect to the subwoofer/amplifier with a round mini-DIN plug? If so, you have the 2nd Generation version. Stop and select the 2nd generation kit. If your preamplifier volume control pod connects to the subwoofer with a serial-type plug using two parallel rows of 4 and 5 pins, go to step 3.
If still unsure, take a look inside the subwoofer by unplugging the system from the wall and removing 8 screws around the outer edge of the panel. Remove the panel (the gasket may stick) and look inside to verify the type of plug your amplifier needs for the speaker terminal. Compare that harness and plug to the four versions in this listing. Note: on older subwoofers, the amplifier's gasket can stick. You may need to pry the amplifier away from the enclosure (after removing the outer 8 mounting screws). I have new gasket tape as an option for replacing old, brittle or compressed gaskets. A seal is important to avoid air noise when the sub is playing.
Step 3: Is your amplifier panel Square or Rectangular? If your amplifier panel uses a serial-type port with parallel 5 and 4 pins and the panel itself is square (200 x 200 mm or 7 7/8" x 7 7/8"), then order the third version of the kit, a.k.a. "Bluetooth". The amplifier may simply be labeled "ProMedia 2.1" or it may be labeled "ProMedia 2.1 BT". If your panel is a rectangle (175 x 225 mm or 6 7/8" x 8 7/8"), that the 4th generation amplifier. Order the 4th Gen. kit.
The original terminal is attached to the amplifier panel with thick double-sided foam tape and a small, green circuit board that serves as a base for the tape and the terminal. Every Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 amplifier from 2000 to the present has a green circuit board over the terminal, so you cannot determine which version of kit you need based on that board. Heat and age cause that foam eventually to become hard, brittle, and shrink, losing its ability to create an airtight seal. (See a sample photo of how that foam dries and shrinks.) This replacement design avoids that problem. You may need to peel, cut or scrape away the original terminal's foam tape so that this terminal can mount flush to the panel for an airtight seal. A heat gun or hair dryer can soften the adhesive for you. After mounting the replacement speaker terminal block, add a bead of adhesive (included) around the edge of the terminal, to seal this terminal to the enclosure. There is no need for the original, green circuit board base for the speaker terminal, since the foam tape has been eliminated.
Two pairs of 3 mm steel bolts and nuts are included to mount this terminal to the panel. The original screws will not be reused.
Note: one more clue about which type you own: the original version amplifier is much heavier. The first generation has a heavy transformer, so the complete sub weighs 17 pounds. The newer versions' complete subwoofer weighs only about 11.5 pounds.
Gasket Option
If you need new gasket material for sealing the amplifier panel to the subwoofer enclosure (the original can become compressed and hard), I have added the option to add a fresh gasket (4 pieces, self-adhesive) for $2. An airtight seal is needed for both the speaker terminal to the panel, and for the back panel to the enclosure. The original gasket can harden and compress. A leak is likely to produce noise as the subwoofer operates. Removing the old gasket can be very simple (the flattened four strips barely have any grip to the aluminum panel), or can be a challenge (if the gasket has cooked and become brittle). Hardened gasket material can be chipped off, heated and peeled, or a fresh gasket can be mounted on top of the old, flat gasket.
Repair / Replace Option: Kit Credit
If you purchase a 1st or 2nd Generation terminal kit here, and then discover that your system needs further repair, you may apply half the value of the kit toward either the cost for one of my amplifier panels (1st or 2nd generation), or to have me repair your amplifier panel and/or preamplifier control pod. Just contact me via the email or phone number included on my business card with your kit. While I cannot recover what was already paid to Ebay, Paypal and USPS for the kit, I can credit $10-$15 from your purchase here toward repair. 1st Generation will include a new, improved LF board (better quality parts, lower heat, has 60 new parts), 9 upgraded parts for the power supply, plus a Noctua cooling fan. A 2nd Generation amplifier repair or replacement will have a pair of upgraded parts and have an adjusted cost about $50-$65 plus shipping ($10 to $15; that panel weighs under 3 pounds).