The controller offered here, is a VVG ERGO², arcade joystick controller, built…and wired for, use with the Atari 7800 ProSystem.  As such, it is also compatible with the Atari 2600 Video Computer System, and it can also be used with several other vintage (and retro) game consoles and home computers, that are also compatible with Atari 7800 controllers.  The controller features an 8-way arcade joystick, two independent arcade pushbuttons, and a custom soldered/crimped 10’controller cable…allowing you to play almost the entire library of Atari 7800 & 2600 games, except for those of course which require a special type of controller…such as a Paddle Controller, a Driving Controller, a Trak-Ball Controller, or a Light Gun…or similar. 

The enclosure used, is a PolyCaseAG-85 (Black).  Which is a small form-factor (7.5” wide x 5.0” deep), manufacturer molded, ABS(flame-retardant), three-piece electronics enclosure.  I have CNC machined the top-half of the enclosure for precise/accurate installation of the arcade hardware/controls, and the rear I/O panel for the installation of the anti-kink cord-grip/bushing.  As a manufacturer molded enclosure, it has a very attractive appearance, and is not subject to the “imperfections” or “visible layers,” one would normally observe on an FDM 3D printed enclosure.

The installed joystick, is my custom modified version, of the iL (Industrias Lorenzo, S.A.U.) PSM-45 joystick…configured here, for 8-way operation (“true” break-before-make 4-way operation, is optional).  This joystick, in its original factory form, has a tall molded bat knob, and a very firm centering spring.  I start the modifications by cutting off the factory bat knob, after which I machine cut the shaft to my specified, ergonomic height.  I then thread the shaft to M6 x 1mm…so that any “standard” threaded arcade knob, can be installed.  In this instance, the ball knob installed, is a Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd., LB-35, Black, 35mm ball knob, which has been installed with a drop of Loctite 222 thread-locker applied, so that it will not loosen, or spin off, during gameplay.  The other modification that I’ve made, is to replace the factory centering spring with one that I have sourced, which provides a much more user friendly, and enjoyable centering tension.  This iL PSM-45 joystick, is a “true” MicroSwitch (clicky) joystick, with Cherry (ZF Friedrichshafen AG) D44X, pin-plunger (button) actuator, miniature snap-acting switches.  Additionally, this joystick, as a “Western” type (vs. an “Asian” type) of joystick, employs a pivot cylinder (vs. a hemispherical pivot ball used in ”Asian” types), offering a short throw “to contact”, and minimal over-travel.  For those who grew up with joysticks from the 80’s (both home console/computer use, and in arcade game cabinets), this joystick will provide a very familiar feel.  The modified joystick is installed with black carriage bolts (smooth/domed heads), and zinc-plated, serrated flange lock-nuts. 

The two installed pushbuttons, are Sanwa Denshi Co, Ltd., OBSF-24 pushbuttons, with Classic Concave Caps from Arcade Shock.  The two-toned push buttons are achieved, by installing Black pushbutton bodies, and Red caps.  The left pushbutton, marked as “Fire 1,” and operated by one’s index finger…is the Atari 7800 “Left” fire button, and the right pushbutton, marked as “Fire 2,” and operated by one’s middle finger…is the Atari 7800 “Right” fire button.  When playing 2-button Atari 7800 games (such as Commando, Xevious, and others),these two pushbuttons provide independent operation for 2-button (“Left” button & “Right” button) compatibility. When playing 1-button 7800 games (such as Centipede, Donkey Kong, and others) these two pushbuttons generally provide 2 redundant “Fire” buttons (with both doing the same thing)…game dependent.  When playing 1-button 2600 games, these two pushbuttons provide two redundant “Fire” buttons.

                The controller cable is a 10’ (external length) custom cable, that I build, from a very flexible 9-conductor Tensility cable…and TE Connectivity D-Sub connector pieces.  The cable enters the rear panel of the controller enclosure via a continuous-flex cord bushing/grip, which also provides anti-kink protection.  All of the internal control wiring connections are soldered, and the Gold-Plated, Phosphor Bronze sockets in the 9-pin connector at the cable’s end, are crimped. 

                To finish off the build, I’ve designed an aesthetically pleasing, era appropriate control panel overlay.  This CPO has been printed on EPSON Premium Photo Paper GLOSSY, with EPSON Ultra HD inks, and it has been heat-laminated (two-sided), with GBC 5 Mil glossy lamination media, with UV protection.  The CPO was then applied to the control surface with 3M 467MP double-sided adhesive sheeting.  To add a bit of extra ballast to this small form-factor controller, I’ve also machined, coated, and installed, a 5/16” x1/2" x 6.4” long steel bar, which is mechanically fastened to the PCB bosses in the lower half of the enclosure.  This steel bar brings the controller’s overall weight, up to approximately 1.25lbs.  This little bit of extra weight, in combination with the (4) adhesive-backed rubber feet adhered to the bottom of the enclosure, help to keep the controller from moving around when used on a hard surface, even during feverish gameplay.

                This is a premium, small form-factor arcade joystick controller, built with legitimate name-brand, arcade quality components (sourced from official product vendors here in the U.S. and Spain), which will provide years of enjoyment, and is capable of handling plenty of abuse.