Here is a kit that allows you to build a Knight Kit Star Roamer! Introduced in 1963, this shortwave radio was sold as a kit by Allied Radio until 1972. It is a 4-tube single conversion superheterodyne shortwave receiver tuning from 1.8-30 MHz, with the addition of the 200-420 kHz longwave band and the 550-1800 kHz AM broadcast band. Remember the fun of building Knight Kits and Heathkits? You can do it again...or find out what the old timers keep reminiscing about! A Star Roamer receiver has been painstakingly disassembled by an Extra Class ham radio operator and components checked and/or upgraded (see details in description). Ready to re-assemble by following the included assembly manual.
After checking the power transformer on this working shortwave receiver, I decided to disassemble it to offer it as a re-kit, that is, a kit previously built (in this case about 55-60 years ago) which is then disassembled and set up to build again. Such re-kits are rarely seen offered because the preparation for sale is very time consuming, so much so that it has to be a labor of love (or OCD). Basic tools should be available to the re-builder. My preferences are to have both an adjustable lighter duty soldering pencil and a 100 watt soldering gun...both will be useful; I like the appearance and ease of soldered connections made with 2% silver-bearing leaded solder. Nut drivers, a small hemostat or two (especially a small curved mosquito), and a set of miniature open end wrenches will all find use if you have them.
Tubes: all tubes provided (6BE6, 6HR6, 12AX7, and 6AK6) are gently used, boxed, and have been tested as good by me on an emission tube tester.
Front panel: is in basically good condition with clear lettering. Look carefully at photos 1, 2, and 3. The prior owner had at some time, likely decades ago, applied a piece of masking tape to the lower left corner and signed his name on it (a juvenile's handwriting). If you have some restoration experience, you know that standard masking tape adhesive left in place for years is one of the most stubborn removal jobs...in some cases it is impossible. In this case, the tape was reduced to the least possible, but I was not satisfied with the appearance for sale. The photos show how a near-color-match piece of archival book interior repair tape has been applied to cover this defect. Photo 2 was taken with the control knobs simply set into place on the panel so that the potential bidder can see the nice final appearance...this appeared to me to be a better solution than an attempted repaint of the corner alone.
Power transformer: has been tested on all windings.
Assembly/Operation Manual: Two photocopies are provided of slightly different Star Roamer manuals. I have marked them A and B; the schematics have some differences between the two manuals. I have clearly marked Manual A as the one the re-builder should use in assembling the kit, as it represents the radio in this auction item. Manual B is included for the education of the buyer, to make them aware that part of the production run used some differences in circuitry. Manual B is dated 1963, Manual A is undated. Since Star Roamer production was from 1963-1972, I suspect Manual A is later in the production run than B. Both manuals have check marks in the boxes, so the re-builder is advised to use a colored pencil to check off their progress, making them easy to distinguish from the marks of the prior builder.
Knob Set: The full original knob set is included. Look carefully at photos 18, 19, and 20: the prior owner had over-tightened the setscrew on one of the small control knob such that it cracked. This knob has been nicely repaired by completely filling its hollow back with a JB Weld-type adhesive, then drilling out the hole for the shaft and the setscrew, then tapping the side hole for the setscrew. This repaired knob is fully serviceable and the repair nearly invisible. My common sense advice to the re-builder is to use the repaired knob on whichever of the control shafts requires the least force to turn...and don't over-tighten the other ones!
Power Supply Electrolytics: The original 4-in-1 cardboard tubular electrolytic was way off for values and leakage; it was not reformable, so it was discarded. I have made a new 4-in-1 cardboard tubular replacement (see upper right corner of photo 4) using 4 new electrolytics in 3/2024 (this is called restuffing an electrolytic). The original leads and mounting strap were incorporated into its construction; the working voltages of these electrolytics are superior to the original. The resultant capacitor is a bit longer than the original but fits nicely into the space allowed for it by the Knight Kit designers. Lead colors remain the same, so no change in instructions from the original manual are needed to install this replacement.
Other capacitors: all other capacitors were checked for both value and leakage on the Sencore LC 53 unit and all were perfectly usable. They are supplied, taped to card stock, on which the measured value of the cap is written next to it and the spec/schematic value written in parentheses (see photo 8). Variable capacitors were all checked for value, mechanical action, and shorts. Throughout the disassembly, preservation of maximum component lead length was practiced for ease of the re-build.
Choke, transformers, diodes: all were checked for values and open windings; the original silicon power supply rectifier has been replaced with a new modern semiconductor (CR-3). The other diodes (CR-1 and CR-2) have been checked and their use is recommended. The rebuilder is cautioned to avoid overheating the diodes during their installation...a hemostat works great as a heat sink when soldering these.
Resistors: I recommend using the supplied new metal film resistors (see photo 9) to replace all carbon composition resistors. However, I am aware that there are people in the radio community who believe that the original design carbon comp. resistors are more desirable to use for certain RF applications. Because of this belief, I have also supplied all the original carbon resistors (see left side of photo 7) noting their spec and measured resistance values next to them on the card stock, for you to decide. Most of their resistances are higher than spec, some significantly so. You may wish to stock them for future projects or discard them.
Potentiometers: Have been checked for satisfactory values and treated with D5 deoxit cleaner.
Rotary and sliding switches: have all been tested and treated with D5 deoxit cleaner.
Component and individual solder lugs: Have been cleaned for easy soldering after removal of all old solder.
Small hardware parts: there are many small bolts (machine screws), nuts, and lock washers in this kit. These have all been sorted by size and then each part painstakingly burnished with a Dremel 428 rotary wire brush to remove any oxidation, then sorted and bagged by size...these are shiny and ready to go. This will assure easiest assembly and most reliable operation. A few extras have been included in case of loss.
Point-to-point wires: all original wiring has been included with this re-kit. These have been sorted by color, then lined up by length and taped to card stock (see photo 10). A few extras have been provided, too. Nevertheless, the re-builder may wish to have a small amount of 22g solid hook up wire available. The wire colors specified by Knight Kit in the instructions are important because that wire may be later referred to by its color in the instructions. The same sort of card stock display is used for the lengths of small coax. In the case of this coax, it is important that excessive heat not be used in soldering either the shield or the central conductor, otherwise a short can occur between the two. As a measure of assurance to the re-builder that such did not occur during the original build, the pieces of this coax have been checked by me both for continuity and lack of shield to central conductor shorts (note that in some of the coax pieces, the shield was clipped intentionally shorter than the central conductor as per the assembly manual, by the original builder).
Adjustable inductors (coils): there are 9 small tunable inductors (see right side of photo 11). These inductors have each been checked to rule out open windings and that their solder lugs are widely open to assure easiest assembly. All coil ferrite slugs have been turned with an alignment tool by me to assure the re-builder than none of the slugs has seized within their forms during the original build. The new builder is cautioned not to force these slugs at any point, as occasionally they may seize at the upper end of the coil form.
Chassis: has been cleaned up to shine and remove all corrosion. The lightly stamped letters/numbers for the tube and coil designations remain readable as before (see photos 15, 16, 21-24).
Though naturally I cannot absolutely guarantee that you will end up with a working receiver, I can assure you that I have done my utmost to facilitate success for the winning bidder. There are a few additional parts and paperwork included with this item that are not pictured. I have also tried my best to make sure you have the parts you will need. Should you find anything missing during assembly (unlikely), I would be happy to send you what is needed if I have one. Even if the re-builder accidentally ruined a part during the assembly, I might be able to help.
Making a shortwave receiver like this is a wonderful adventure and can be a great learning experience. Potential bidders are hereby cautioned that AC and DC voltages are present at various parts of the wiring when energized and that the electrolytics can retain a charge for quite a while...these voltages can be dangerous and possibly lethal. The winning bidder assumes all risk in this regard. Basic safety steps include: 1) unplugging the unit whenever working on it, 2) discharging electrolytics after the power has been on before working on it (by shorting the positive terminals to ground or chassis; look up 'chicken stick in electronics' on line for the best way to do this, a great habit to develop), 3) when adjustments are being made on an energized unit, as is needed during alignment, keep one hand in your pocket, and 4) don't work on equipment like this when you are getting to the sleepy part of your day.
The 30 day return period applies only if assembly has not been started. Using a colored pencil to check off each step as it is completed in the manual is advised, as there are already regular pencil marks in it. Taking your time during assembly and reading each step entirely before you start it is a good idea. After each step is completed, double check that you have installed the correct part and that you have actually done what the instructions say...you will catch a mistake on the front end that way, in all likelihood, and it is much easier to correct it then than trying to track it down later. I am happy to answer any questions about this unique offering. Shipping weight of the carefully packed shipping container is 12 pounds.
Jerry Svoboda/KB2QIU, Rochester, NY