Introduced to the market in 1928, the legendary "Prince" with its elegant Art Deco case design has ever since been popular amongst aficionados and aristocrats of the period. The models, always fitted with rectangular cases of different shapes, were advertised as "The Watch for Men of Distinction" albeit only a few fortunate ones afforded the ‘Rolex Prince ‘Jumping Hours’…
The strategic placement of the winding and balance wheels to each end allowed the use of a larger balance, resulting in a longer autonomy and increased accuracy. It furthermore enabled a dial design with an enlarged subsidiary seconds dial below the hour dial. From this layout derived the designation "doctor's watch" as the larger seconds dial was practical for functions such as the reading of the pulse.
The present watch is a rare Stainless Steel variant and from the celebrated reference 1491 HS series, distinguished by the flared sides and called "Brancard" from the French word "brancard" for "stretcher", and the "Heures Sautantes" or "Jumping Hours". The watch retains the original, solid 0.935 fine silver dial was made by Stern Freres for Rolex. Please see their stamp on the underside of the dial. They were the pre-eminent Swiss dial maker of the era and the Stern family now own Patek Philippe. This superb time piece is in excellent working order and in very good condition. Recently serviced by a master horologist and in good working order keeping accurate time with the jump hour feature working correctly. Ready to enjoy and treasure for many years to come!
The first jump hour pocket watches appeared already in the early 19th century but the system became particularly fashionable during the Art Deco period. The architectural layout, displaying the actual hour through a small aperture, minutes and seconds on enlarged subsidiary dials, harmonized perfectly with the purely decorative Art Deco style, seen as elegant, functional, and ultra modern.
During the "Roaring Twenties", pocket and wristwatches fitted with this unusual display were made by the most eminent makers, notably Audemars Piguet, Cartier and Patek Philippe but the fashion declined with the Great Depression, and was definitively over by World War II which resulted in very low production numbers of these fine Jumping hour time pieces. Rolex say there was a limited number of Prince watches ‘as such fine watches cannot be produced quickly or in large quantities’.
Finding very good original examples of any pre-WW2 Rolex has become increasingly hard in the past 5 -10 years, but finding an example of this design is very difficult, as most are in the hands of collectors and seldom come to the market these days.
Prior to the early 1930’s all watches were round, reflecting the shape of the movement. However, during the early ’30s, rectangular case design watches became hugely fashionable. This Rolex Prince range showcases the dressier side of Rolex and was only afforded by the well to do back in the 1930’s.
This version is fitted in a rare stainless steel case. The dial colour is factory Ivory white, which was a popular colour for dress watches produced in this era (as seen with the contemporary Patek Philippe models) The silver against the white offers just the right amount of personality for a dress watch. This model is quite versatile in that it can be comfortably worn in casual or a black-tie settings. This example captures the extravagance of the Art Deco 1930’s in the style of this rectangle case. What makes this piece special is the jumping hour dial which reflects art deco design and goes exceptionally well with the rest of the theme.
The Original Dial: The original, solid 0.935 fine silver dial was made by Stern Freres for Rolex. Please see their stamp on the underside of the dial (photo). They were the pre-eminent Swiss dial maker of the era and the Stern family now own Patek Philippe. Many rectangular watches of this period carried dials with ‘art-deco’ influences and this can be seen in the design. Square and rectangular watch dials present certain challenges to dial designers, here the approach, Arabic numerals, a minute railtrack completes the top dial and is complete with a red jump hour aperture at ’12’ and the dial carries a perfectly proportioned subsidiary seconds dial at the bottom. Both the dials on this watch are swept by eventail blued steel hands. The dial is signed: ‘Rolex Prince’ with Swiss Made at the very bottom. The dial has micro marks commensurate with age and wear not noticeable to the naked eye only under magnification or when looking very closely. Overall good condition. Please observe photographs.
Original Case: The case measures 26mm across, excluding the correct unsigned crown, and 43mm lug to lug. This beautiful watch has a particularly elegantly shaped case with attractive elongated lugs. This may seem a little small, but it is, in fact, quite a large watch for the period, especially when one considers it is 49mm across the diagonal, including the lugs. The two-piece case is not hinged, but is opened using the bottom lip and swings open, revealing the movement. The movement can then be removed without any tools by holding the upper case and gently lifting the case back away from the main case – not recommended for the inexperienced or the faint hearted. When acquiring such a rectangular or square watch, it is important to ensure the case shows no wear, no fatigue cracks and no pinholes, particularly around the hinge and corner areas. This type of case is prone to wear and damage in these areas, which is another reason these watches are rare, as cases become beyond repair and restoration. Fortunately, this example has been extremely well cared for and very lightly used, the case has required no work apart from some very light hand-polishing. There are no deep scratches or dings and no damage heavy wear visible including any signs of previous repairs or intervention. Looks larger on the wrist due to its rectangle style shape.
Crown/Winder: Unsigned correct crown in very good condition and functioning order.
Original Movement: The movement is signed ‘Rolex Hairspring Observatory Quality Timed 6 Positions’, ‘17 Rubies’ and ‘For All Climates’, this movement also carries the Rolex serial number 76175. The movement fitted to this watch is the original 17 Jewelled Observatory movement used in all the best Rolex hand-wound watches of this period. As can be seen, it is superb condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by a master horologist Rolex specialist watchmaker. The movement is running accurately and the jump hour feature engages effortlessly!
Original Crystal: Good condition.
Original Case Back Cover Outer: Snap back stainless steel case, pops and clicks as it should. The case-back also carries the Rolex model reference and serial number. As can be seen, these numbers are clear and distinct, which is a very strong indication this watch has been very lightly used. In good condition. Numbered 5428 1491 HS. Please see photos.
Original Case Back Cover Inner: Inside the case-back is found the early and correct Rolex 25 World’s Record Geneva Suisse Rolesuim Registered Inalterable - R.W.C Ltd signature for Rolex Watch Co Ltd. The case, in common with the majority of Rolex cases of this period.
Rolex Genuine Buckle/ Aftermarket Strap Band: Aftermarket unauthentic leather strap in good condition fitted to a genuine signed steel buckle.
*Please observe photos carefully as they form part of the description*
Please note this Rolex is over 90 years old
Shipping DHL insured registered post World wide, buyer responsible for any taxes or duties due which may delay or hold up your shipment at destination port.
Maker: Rolex
Model: Prince Jump Hour
Reference: 1491 HS
Year: Circa 1930’s
Material: Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 26mm x 43mm excluding crown, including lugs, 8mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: No
Caliber: Rolex manual-winding Observatory 17 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Black leather strap (Aftermarket) Genuine Rolex steel buckle
Lug Width: 20mm
Box: No
Papers:No