I installed a whipple stage II blower kit on the engine knowing I would blow the original engine and I blew it faster than expected.  I have only put just over 1200 miles on this car during the past 4 years.   That block is long gone for scrap.

Most of the time with this car was spent wrenching when I had time for it.  

I wouldn't run more than 4 psi of boost on a stock engine if you want it to last.   

Hemi's respond well to cams but once in, that's it.   With a blower you can change the blower pulley to have a lot of power to completely insane power.   Worries about porting, polishing, throttle body size, and different rocker arms all go out the window once you pressurize the intake system.  So I have always done or owned forced induction cars other than day to day plough horses.   With the Lincoln I swapped pulleys for day to day driving - around 4 psi - to 8 psi for drag race grudge night.  It only takes a few minutes to do so.  The Whipple stage II pulley is 9 PSI.  My lincoln was not intercooled.   The 9 PSI and heat will probably be reduced by the larger exhaust valves.  I chose the stage II for the intercooler to keep charge temperature down.  

The driveline is a mercedes NAG 5 speed automatic, a new process transfer case splitting power 37/63 front and rear with AWD activated and warn front axle disconnect diff system - essentially a mercedes 4matic system.  My research gave me enough confidence that I figured 6-700 hp would have a reasonable lifetime.   However, there is always a measured risk when you up the HP.   

Starting in July 2023 I built out an arrington based 5.7 v8 with a stock cam, JBA shorty headers into stock exhaust (don't like loud cars), and spared almost no expense building the car.   I was 350 miles into a slowly ramping up power for a 500 mile break in when the car was struck by another vehicle breaking my back on this project.  

People wonder why I stayed with the 5.7 displacement.   The increased traction of AWD will more than make up for getting the car off the line.    Why not a different cam?   I wanted the car to be a nice 300 when I wasn't on it, which is most of the time.  

The smoothboost system is installed to give the car a more linear power profile.   It comes with a boost control knob which will limit how much the bypass valve is opened.  I hadn't mounted that knob/panel yet.   You can also ground the controller's blue wire and defeat the blower.   I had planned on a key or hidden switch to defeat that system when the car was in the hands of parking attendants or anyone else.  Think of it like the special key for a hellcat.    I am not sure how the smoothboost will respond and how the dial will affect the amount of boost.  

The smoothboost defeated the blower during the break in period which was not completed.

The bypass valve admits air into the lower manifold bypassing the blower.   The smoothboost eliminates the old vacuum brake type mechanical valve actuator that opens the bypass valve when manifold vacuum increases.  Thus when you to lift your foot the blower pressure is relieved.  

Whipple stage 2 kits include an intercooler, pump, tank, lower manifold heat exchanger and an MSD boost brain that ramps up the fuel pump under boost.    

The kit also includes an HP tuner which comes with the car with a tune designed for Stage II on stock cam.  It is not tuned to work with the smooth boost controller, nor the larger exhaust valves in the DPP rebuilt heads, nor the JBA headers.  

I bought the cold air kit too with the big K&N filter.  

Next steps would have been final tuning, but first permanently defeating the daimler-chrysler era traction control which kills the engine when the tires spin.

I think I would then install a  pedal commander (not bought/installed/or included) which would have been programmed (or I would have modified the electronics) to have a slight ramp on the power application to avoid spinning the tires when I tromped on it.   Once the tires were done I would go with probably 275 or 295s or whatever would fit.   

The car Gen III MDS system is defeated.  The solenoids have been replaced with caps and there are no MDS lifters in the engine.  

My inspection didn't show any damage the control arms and it was the frame that deflected.   The mercedes-ish suspension components are heavy cast steel and along with the hub and steering knuckle I would be surprised if the driver's side was damaged.   

I bought Mopar OEM NEW parts other than the hotrod stuff installed unless I found better elsewhere.   An example would be denso o2 sensors as I thought them better than stock.  I used gates hoses/serpentine belt and an oreily water pump.   The starter is new and came from Hammond Brothers in Garland and that's what he would put on his car - so not auto chain store bits.  I built this thing to last and to not give me trouble. 

Listed below is a table of all the parts I have installed, date of purchase and their mopar part numbers.  This was a no expense spared kind of deal but I will let you judge for yourself.  One of the reasons this took as much time as it did was because with this kind of mileage the front end would be loose with ball joints and bushings and struts being worn.   So the list of suspension rebuild components is also included.  It would be insane to build this kind of power and not be sure of the front end, plus I already had it pulled apart and on jack stands.  

Included with the car will be the mopar tech authority factory CD for 2013 LX (300/charger) as well as the documentation for the smooth boost, whipple install, and anything else I might have sitting about which includes new front brake pads not yet installed.  

I am selling you a whipple stage II intercooled supercharged arrington hemi 5.7 v8 (which they said was good for 1000 hp - and don't ask because I never got far enough to start testing the thing on a dyno) with a bent chrysler 300 thrown in for free.  If you are going past what I had planned then go to ARP head bolts.

There are a lot of options for the prospective buyer:

Have a body shop pull the thing straight, tune it, and go for it.   

Take the drive line and stuff it on your 300 or charger (both came with AWD).  

Pull the drive line and make something yourself with a working ready to go engine and put it into your project and scrap or break the car for parts for cost recovery.  

The car has a lot of nice features - heated/cooled cup holders ala mercedes of the period - although I am not sure the driver's side heats up as I never used it.  I think the passenger one gets hot/cold and the driver's gets cold.   Heated rear seats.  Dual zone a/c.  Power seats both sides.   Memory for driver's seat. 

One small item that was done was an update of the rear view parking camera.  The new one seems to have a much better resolution and picture.    

The leather interior is in nice shape although I noticed a line on the outer driver's bolster on the bolster and I am not sure what that is about, but the leather is not torn.   Pictures should give you an idea of condition.  The ash tray cover doesn't latch.  There are the odd nicks and scratches.  I have the original carfax I printed out prior to purchase.   The car has a tint on the windows which is nice in the Texas summers - installed by previous owner.

Power windows all work.  Power door locks all work.  Sound system works nicely.   Remote start works.  Navigation works.   And of course the battery goes out right before I list the car so the battery was replaced 2/2024.   

The car has another nice mercedes feature found in E class cars - and that is a rear sun shade that rolls up and down through the touch screen interface which also has navigation.  In Texas that is a nice feature.

Climate control works - no issues.  Wipers work - no issues.     All of that is in the walk around video.

I just serviced the transmission and had changed the oil in the front differential.   Other than jobbing stuff out like the short block and work on the heads, I did all the work myself in my garage/shop to factory specification.  Note that the factory manual has a mistake in it when you replace the engine versus replacing the transmission.   The flexplate to torque converter bolts in the engine instructions are specified at 60 ft lbs - which is wrong.  The transmission instructions have them at 40 ft lbs, so I broke one off and would have dealt with it after I started ramping up the blower.    I hadn't changed the rear shocks or the oil in the rear diff yet.

Engine is full of 15-50w mobil 1 as advised by Arrington.   

I haven't flushed the brake system yet.  

I also replaced the transmission cooling lines.   

All the tire TPMS sensors have been replaced.   

I have a complete record of every thing I spent on this car and an extensive picture history as the car might turn into a book or series of youtube videos or both.   My youtube channel is steamboat75043 and I have a few car repair how-to videos paying it forward for those who helped me.   I am a musician so look in my playlists for car repair videos.  

I don't know if I have any car/truck/bike projects left in me.  The fire went out when this car was hit when a stolen car passed me on 635 eastbound as I was cruising along at 65 mph.  I knew that car would lose control and they did causing a big accident.  When it passed me I threw on my safety flashers and slowed down with traffic and as the certified crash report states the cr-v made a 'faulty evasive maneuver' and struck the 300.   I no longer wish to continue working on this project.   

During the build process I found many mistakes and areas for improvement in the instructions for the installation of the supercharger and nearly every page has notes and corrections.

One example was having the Whipple blower installer remove the intake manifold before installing the intercooler and taping up the ports.   I did the intercooler install first first and left the engine alone until the blower was ready to go on.  

The car can be driven on to a trailer or tow truck but that's about it.   

You are welcome to contact me and I will answer your questions about the vehicle.  I see this as an opportunity for someone with access to a body shop to save around $25000 or more to build similar.  Or get creative.   

Parts list:  (i have attached some pix of the invoices for the major components)