A full-color cookbook that introduces American palates to authentic Japanese-style grilling, with 95 recipes that skillfully blend traditional ingredients, modern twists, and the sizzle of a hot fire to create remarkable meals.
Grilling has a long history in Japan, and for good reason: the cuisine's salty-sweet flavors take well to hints of smoke. In "The Japanese Grill," Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat reveal the diversity of Japanese-style grilling. They share their secrets for classics such as Chicken Yakitori and Miso-Cured Mackerel, create new comfort foods like London Broil with Garlic-Soy Marinade and Turkey Burgers with Miso Barbecue Sauce, and serve up innovations like Green Tea-Smoked Duck Breasts and Salmon with Shiso Pesto. A selection of side dishes and salads round out grilled meals. In this handsome volume, Ono and Salat bring Japanese grilling culture to Western tables—with delicious results that are at once familiar and new."
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A full-color cookbook that introduces American palates to authentic Japanese-style grilling, with 95 recipes that skillfully blend traditional ingredients, modern twists, and the sizzle of a hot fire to create remarkable meals.American grilling, Japanese flavors. In this bold cookbook, chef Tadashi Ono of Matsuri and writer Harris Salat share a key insight- that live-fire cooking marries perfectly with mouthwatering Japanese ingredients like soy sauce and miso.Packed with fast-and-easy recipes, versatile marinades, and step-by-step techniques, The Japanese Grill will have you grilling amazing steaks, pork chops, salmon, tomatoes, and whole chicken, as well as traditional favorites like yakitori, yaki onigiri, and whole salt-packed fish. Whether you use charcoal or gas, or are a grilling novice or disciple, you will love dishes like Skirt Steak with Red Miso, Garlic-Soy Sauce Porterhouse, Crispy Chicken Wings, Yuzu Kosho Scallops, and Soy Sauce-and-Lemon Grilled Eggplant. Ono and Salat include menu suggestions for sophisticated entertaining in addition to quick-grilling choices for healthy weekday meals, plus a slew of delectable sides that pair well with anything off the fire.Grilling has been a centerpiece of Japanese cooking for centuries, and when you taste the incredible dishes in The Japanese Grill-both contemporary and authentic-you'll become a believer, too.
TADASHI ONO is executive chef at Matsuri in New York City. He has been featured in TheNew York Times, Gourmet, and Food & Wine. RRIS SALAT's stories about food and culture have appeared in The New York Times, Saveur, and Gourmet, and he writes the blog, The Japanese Food Report . He is the author, with Takashi Yagihashi, of Takashi's Noodles. Together, Ono and Salat are the authors of Japanese Hot Pots. Visit The Japanese Grill online-
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS viii
INTRODUCTION 1
THE BASICS: JAPANESE INGREDIENTS 6
THE BASICS: GRILLING 10
CLASSIC YAKITORI 19
Classic Chicken Leg 26
Chicken and Scallion 27
Minced Chicken 28
Chicken Liver 29
Gizzard 30
Neck 31
Chicken Heart 32
Skin 33
Chicken Oysters 34
Chicken Breast with Wasabi 35
Chicken Tenderloins with Ume Paste 36
Ume-Wasabi Duck Breast 37
Bacon Asparagus 38
Pork Belly 39
Beef Liver 40
Beef Tongue 41
Shiitake Mushrooms 42
Shishito Peppers 43
Asparagus 44
Garlic 45
POULTRY 47
Grilled Chicken Breast Teriyaki 50
Chicken Breasts with Yuzu Kosho Marinade 50
Bone-In Chicken Breast with Soy Sauce 51
Pounded Chicken Breasts with Yukari Shiso Marinade 52
Sansho-Rubbed Butterflied Chicken Legs 53
Crispy Chicken Wings with Seven-Spice-Powder Marinade 55
Ginger-Garlic Half Chicken 56
Turkey Burger with Quick Barbecue Sauce 58
Japanese-Style Turkey Pastrami 59
Butterflied Cornish Game Hens with Orange–Soy Sauce Glaze 60
Miso-Glazed Quail 61
Butterflied Hatcho-Miso Squab 62
Green Tea–Smoked Duck 63
FISH AND SEAFOOD 65
Salt-Grilled Head-On Shrimp 66
Salt-Grilled Whole Sardines 68
Whole Red Snapper with Ponzu 71
Yuzu Kosho Bronzini 75
Yuzu Kosho Scallops 76
Garlic–Yuzu Kosho Shrimp 78
Swordfish Teriyaki 79
Salmon with Shiso Pesto 81
Tuna with Avocado-Wasabi Puree 82
Mako Shark with Scallion Oil 84
Mahi Mahi with Sesame–Soy Sauce Dipping Sauce 85
Hot-Oil Halibut 86
Grilled Lobster with Ponzu Brown Butter 87
Squid with Ginger–Soy Sauce Marinade 89
Littleneck Clams with Soy Sauce 90
Foil-Baked Whole Trout with Lemon–Soy Sauce Butter 92
Catfish in Bamboo Leaf 93
Cedar Plank–Grilled Arctic Char 94
Smoked Trout with Wasabi Sour Cream 95
Salt-Cured Salmon 96
Miso-Cured Spanish Mackerel 97
Sakekasu-Cured Black Cod 98
Bronzini Himono 99
MEAT 101
Thin-Sliced Tenderloin with Wasabi Gyu Dare 105
Porterhouse with Garlic–Soy Sauce Marinade 106
Sirloin Steak with Karashi Mustard Gyu Dare 108
Bone-In Rib-Eye with Wasabi Sour Cream 109
Filet Mignon with Ume Gyu Dare 111
"Tokyo Broil" Flank Steak 112
Skirt Steak with Red Miso 113
Hatcho-Miso–Marinated Hanger Steak 114
Grilled Wagyu with Ponzu 115
Scallion Beef 117
Two-Minute Steak with Shiso Butter 118
Japanese Burgers with Wasabi Ketchup 119
Karashi Mustard Short Ribs 120
"Kalbi"-Style Short Ribs 121
Veal Cutlets with Ponzu Butter 122
Veal Chops with Shiitake Dashi 123
Pork Chops with Yuzu-Miso Marinade 124
Ginger Boneless Pork Shoulder 126
Chashu Pork 127
Crispy Pork Belly with Garlic-Miso Dipping Sauce 129
Japanese-Style Barbecued Baby Back Ribs 131
Pork Spare Ribs with Miso-Sansho Marinade 132
Garlic–Yuzu Kosho Lamb Chops 133
Lamb Shoulder Steak with Japanese Curry Oil 134
Calf's Liver with Ginger-Sesame Oil 135
VEGETABLES 137
Whole Grilled Japanese Eggplant with Lemon and Soy Sauce 139
Corn Brushed with Soy Sauce and Mirin 140
Asparagus with Miso-Mayonnaise Dipping Sauce 141
Portobello with Freshly Chopped Mitsuba 142
Zucchini with Shiso and Olive Oil 143
Tomatoes with Garlic, Sansho, and Olive Oil 144
Foil-Baked Mushrooms with Ponzu Butter 146
Foil-Baked Edamame 147
Foil-Baked Green Beans with Soy Sauce and Garlic 149
Foil-Baked Onions with Soy Sauce 150
Foil-Baked Garlic with Miso 150
Foil-Baked Sweet Potatoes with Salt 151
Foil-Baked Carrots with Salt 152
Foil-Wrapped Taro Root 153
YAKI ONIGIRI 155
Soy Sauce Yaki Onigiri 158
Miso Yaki Onigiri 158
Shiso-Ume Yaki Onigiri 159
Yukari Shiso Salt Yaki Onigiri 159
Ao Nori Seaweed and Sesame Yaki Onigiri 160
Bonito Flakes–Black Sesame Yaki Onigiri 160
PERFECT SIDE DISHES 161
Watercress Salad with Karashi Mustard Wafu Dressing 163
Tomato-Shiso Salad with Garlic Wafu Dressing 164
Wakame Salad with Ginger Wafu Dressing 165
Onion Salad with Soy Sauce and Bonito 166
Green Cabbage Salad with Carrot-Ginger Vinaigrette 167
Daikon Salad with Dried Tiny Shrimp 168
Spinach with Ground Sesame 169
Spinach-Bacon Salad with Creamy Tofu Dressing 170
Pickled Lotus Root 171
Arugula-Jako Salad with Soy Sauce Vinaigrette 172
Spicy Bean Sprouts 173
Romaine Hearts with Miso-Mustard Dressing 174
Crudités with Three Dipping Sauces 175
Tofu Salad à la Provençal 176
SOURCES 177
FINDING INGREDIENTS 179
INDEX 180
"It will blow the lid off your grill."
—Seattle Weekly's Voracious Blog, Cooking the Books, 6/1/11
"What makes this book a wonderful resource is the authors' conviction that by applying traditional Japanese flavors to untraditional Japanese ingredients, home cooks will end up with something unexpected and delicious. . . . With The Japanese Grill, the authors have woven the seemingly disparate cultures and grilling styles to create a cookbook that respects and enriches both."
—The Epi-Log, Epicurious.com, 5/20/11
"The Japanese Grilltakes grilling to a new, unexpected level, mixing infinitely familiar grilled fare with a bit of the exotic."
—Devour Recipe & Food Blog, Cooking Channel, 5/12/11
"The land of the rising sun shares its border with barbecue country in this simple and salty collection."
—Publishers Weekly, 3/7/11
"From the simple (foil-baked green beans) to the sublime (chashu pork), this book boasts some of the most fabulous grilling recipes ever assembled in one volume. If you consider yourself to be a grill aficionado, you must—and I mean must—own it. Your grill library won't be complete without it."
—James Oseland, editor in chief of Saveur and author of Cradle of Flavor
"A stunning book about one of my favorite grill cultures. You can see how the Japanese have elevated live-fire cooking to the level of art."
—Steven Raichlen, author of Planet Barbecue and host of Primal Grill on PBS
"Demystifying the seemingly inapproachable is something that Ono and Salat believe in as much as I do. With The Japanese Grill they have taken on a genre of cooking that every home cook wants to become intimate with but thinks they can't execute. This book should get a serious workout on kitchen counters around the country. I love it!"
—Andrew Zimmern, host of The Travel Channel's Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern and author of The Bizarre Truth
From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables
"What makes this book a wonderful resource is the authors' conviction that by applying traditional Japanese flavors to untraditional Japanese ingredients, home cooks will end up with something unexpected and delicious. . . . With The Japanese Grill , the authors have woven the seemingly disparate cultures and grilling styles to create a cookbook that respects and enriches both." -The Epi-Log, Epicurious.com, 5/20/11 "The Japanese Grilltakes grilling to a new, unexpected level, mixing infinitely familiar grilled fare with a bit of the exotic." -Devour Recipe & Food Blog, Cooking Channel, 5/12/11 "The land of the rising sun shares its border with barbecue country in this simple and salty collection." -Publishers Weekly, 3/7/11 "From the simple (foil-baked green beans) to the sublime (chashu pork), this book boasts some of the most fabulous grilling recipes ever assembled in one volume. If you consider yourself to be a grill aficionado, you must-and I mean must-own it. Your grill library won't be complete without it." -James Oseland, editor in chief of Saveur and author of Cradle of Flavor
"From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables"
THE BASICS: GRILLING SETTING UP YOUR GRILL What kind of grill should you use, charcoal or gas? It boils down to heat and convenience. Which is best for you? A totally personal choice. Tadashi, who grills for his family almost every Sunday, three seasons a year, insists on charcoal for its purity of cooking and flavor. Harris also loves charcoal, but keeps a gas grill handy for hurry-up weeknight grilling. For this book, we stick to the two most popular grilling options for our recipes, kettle-style charcoal grills and gas grills, and base our timings on them. Charcoal grills Not only do charcoal grills pump out a lot more heat than gas grills, they also surround foods with enveloping rays from the glowing coals, searing and cooking foods in a way gas grills just can''t. And besides the high temperatures, charcoal, especially lump charcoal, produces a singular smoky flavor. With charcoal grills, though, you have to start a fire, maintain it, manage temperature, and clean up the ash. It''s more work, but the challenge makes the results that much more rewarding. Gas grills No doubt about it, gas grills are much more convenient to use than charcoal grills and easier to control, and there''s no messy ash to trash after dinner. And gas grills like the Weber we used in our book have special metal bars that vaporize dripping juices, thus adding flavor while eliminating flare-ups. Kamado grills We also want to mention charcoal-fueled kamado-style grills like the Big Green Egg. These are grills lined with high-fire ceramics or other types of earthenware that do a great job of retaining heat, so you can grill much hotter. They have a cultish following; as fans can attest, foods grilled on them turn out fantastic. If you do use an Egg or any other kamado-style grill for the recipes in this book, follow its user''s guide to adjust recipe timing. Charcoal When grilling with charcoal, a good-quality lump hardwood charcoal is best. These irregularly shaped chunks of natural charcoal are 100 percent hardwood and contain no additives. They burn hotter and faster than charcoal briquettes, so cook foods better. Lump charcoal is more expensive than briquettes, but if it fits your budget, go with it. Otherwise, look for all-natural charcoal briquettes, which are not laced with additives like regular briquettes. Chimney starter With any type of charcoal, light the briquettes with a cylindrical chimney starter rather than lighter fuel, which infuses food with an unappealing, fuel-tinged flavor. You''ll find them at any store that sells grilling equipment. To use : Pile charcoal into the top chamber and stuff crumpled newspaper into the bottom chamber, which has holes on the sides. Set the chimney starter on the lower grate of your grill (which holds the charcoal) and light the newspaper. The coals will ignite; when they''re covered with gray ash, they''re ready for cooking. (Chimney starters get very hot and must be handled safely. Be sure to fully read the user''s guide that accompanies this tool before the first use.) Japanese Grills Kettle and gas grills rule the American backyard. But Japanese use different kinds of grills that are also terrific and available here. First, let''s dispel a myth: In Japan, hibachi aren''t grills. There, they are cylindrical or box-shaped containers (earthenware or earthenware-lined) used for smoldering charcoal to heat a room. Somehow, in America, the word hibachi came to mean a small-sized grill or a flat-top griddle. Small Japanese grills are actually called shichirin . These grills are made from earthenware or ceramics; come in different sizes; and are cylindrical, square, or rectangular. Some are small enough to rest on a tabletop, which you see in restaurants in Japan. Charcoal-fired konro are larger grills, typically rectangular shaped, and made from heatproof ceramics or metal. These are the grills used at yakitori joints to sizzle perfect skewers of chicken; their narrow fireboxes concentrate and focus heat from the charcoal while at the same time insulating the hands that turn the skewers. Konro are perfect for Japanese skewer grilling (page 19) but also typically come with removable wire-mesh cooking grates, so you can use those as well. Konro are sold in various sizes; a 54-centimeter version (about 21 inches) is perfect for home use, and, as we can personally attest, an incredible way to grill foods (see "Sources," page 177 , for retailers). With all these Japanese grills, you don''t use typical American charcoal, lump or not. Instead, you burn binchotan, an almost magical, artisan-made Japanese charcoal (see "Binchotan," page 12). INDISPENSABLE TOOLS No matter how kitted-out your charcoal or gas set-up, you need the right tools to grill successfully. You don''t need a ton of stuff, just these indispensable tools: Grill brush A heavy duty, steel-bristled brush will let you scrape off the gunk that accumulates on your cooking grate. Use it before and after you grill so foods won''t stick. Preheat the grill, then brush the cooking grate like you mean it. Oil wad This one''s a DIY (do-it-yourself) tool--either a wad of paper towels or an old kitchen towel. It works in tandem with the grill brush to ensure that food won''t stick. Dunk the wadded paper or towel in a small container of vegetable oil (1/2 cup is fine). Preheat the grill, then scrape the cooking grate with your grill brush. Now grab the oil-soaked wad with tongs and completely coat the cooking grate with oil. It might get a little smoky when you oil the grate, but don''t worry, that will dissipate quickly. Tongs Buy a pair of sturdy, 16-inch-long steel tongs to safely turn foods on the grill without burning yourself (and also do the oil-wad trick described before). Use tongs, not a monster fork, to turn foods; you don''t want to pierce your precious (and expensive) steak or chop and let all its luscious juices run out. Kitchen chopsticks Called saibashi in Japanese, these super-sized kitchen chopsticks (14 inches long and up) are incredibly handy for turning delicate or small ingredients on the grill--scallops or spears of asparagus, for example. You can find these inexpensive wood or bamboo chopsticks at Japanese food markets. Spatula A spatula is critical for flipping fish fillets, burgers, or any other delicate foods that can break apart on the grill. Use a spatula with a blade at least 6 inches long. An all-metal spatula, the kind that does yeoman''s work on the kitchen stove, is great. If you''re grilling fish fillets, keep two handy, which makes turning easier. Basting brush We baste like nobody''s business in this book, so a sturdy basting brush is a must. The best choice is a natural boar-bristle brush with a long handle that will keep your hand safely away from the heat. Make sure to hand-wash these brushes in hot, soapy water after each use. Avoid nylon bristles as they can melt if they touch the grate. An alternative is a brush with silicone bristles, as silicone can withstand higher temperatures. Spray bottle Keep a water-filled spray bottle handy to kill flare-ups before they scorch and blacken your food. Hand fan Use a sturdy hand fan or paddle fan two ways: to fan coals when you start your fire so they reach grilling temperature quicker and to fan coals when they''re losing power, to revive them with a blast of oxygen-rich air. Binchotan Made from the branches of Japanese oak, binchotan is a revered, traditional white charcoal. While the word dates back to the 1700s, charcoal-making in Japan reaches back over a millennium and has played a central role in Japanese cooking since. What makes binchotan so special? Produced by artisans following the laborious methods handed down through the generations, the oak is fired in an earthen kiln for about a week, producing charcoal so hard it clinks like glass when struck together. Binchotan , which still keeps the natural shape of the branches from which it''s derived, burns for hours, smokeless and odorless, at a whopping 1,800F. It''s an integral element of chanoyu , the Japanese way of tea, where it''s used for ritualistically heating the water. It is also essential for Japanese grilling because the very action of its intense infrared rays creates umami flavor compounds in ingredients--so just grilling something on binchotan makes it taste better. The best binchotan comes from one tiny area in Japan, the Kishu region of Wakayama Prefecture, and is expensive; only certain oak of a certain age can be used, and few charcoal artisans plying this trade remain. But pricy or not, binchotan is the charcoal of choice for chefs devoted to grilling. Because it''s so hard, lighting binchotan is tough; you have to place it over a live fire to ignite it. Once lit, it often takes an hour or more for the charcoal to become coated with white ash and reach cooking temperature. But because it burns so long, you can very carefully transfer red-hot binchotan from a grill to a hikeshi tsubo (fire-extinguishing pot), a special earthenware jar that will hold and eventually extinguish the charcoal, so you can use it again and again, until it reduces to dust. MANAGING HEAT Managing heat on a stovetop is easy: just adjust the burner''s controls this way or that and choose cookware like copper or cast iron to improve heat retention. Managing heat on the grill, on the other hand, is a whole