A collection of three Chinese kingfisher feather hair or headdress ornaments featuring creatures and floral designs

 

CONDITION: good vintage condition with expected wear

 

APPROXIMATE DATE: 1900s

 

MATERIALS: metal, enamel, beads, kingfisher feather

 

DESCRIPTION:

 

A collection of three Chinese kingfisher feather hair or headdress ornaments featuring creatures and floral designs

 

#1 rectangular openwork hair pin measures 2 x 1½ ins (5 x 4 cm)

 

#2 leaf and flower headdress ornament with red stones measures 2½ x 1½ ins (6 x 4 cm)

 

#3 Insect headdress ornament measures 2 x 1 ins (5 x 2.5 cm)

 

FURTHER INFORMATION:

 

The Manchu minority ruled from 17th century to the early 20th century in China. Contemporary photographs and illustrations from the late 19th and early 20th century show that there were lavish and exaggerated versions seen at the Manchu court of the Dowager Empress Tzu-Hsi.

 

During this period, the headdress of court ladies was extremely elaborate and complex. It was drawn up to the crown of the head, where it was surmounted by a large wing shaped headdress covered in rich fabric. This in turn was often decorated with various ornaments which were sewn or pinned into place upon it. Long pendant hair pins hung from the extremities.

 

A favourite treatment for the headings of such hair pins as well as ornaments which were sewn or pinned to the headdresses were Kingfisher feathers. These ornaments were usually made of gilded brass, the most commonly used patterns being flower sprays and various animals such as butterflies, bats and sea birds, together with the phoenix, symbol of status and wealth; The ornaments were made with small cells, similar to those found in Western enamel jewellery. However instead of enamel the spaces were filled with tiny cut out pieces of the beautiful iridescent blue kingfisher feathers.

 

The feathers were painstakingly cut to exact size to fit separate metal sections, and carefully attached with thin adhesive so they retained brilliant color and iridescence. This jewel like mosaic was often combined with semi precious materials such as pearls, jade, coral and turquoise. In the lesser pieces glass jewels and faux pearl beads were used.

 

FURTHER INFORMATION:

 

The Manchu minority ruled from 17th century to the early 20th century in China. Contemporary photographs and illustrations from the late 19th and early 20th century show that there were lavish and exaggerated versions seen at the Manchu court of the Dowager Empress Tzu-Hsi.

 

During this period, the headdress of court ladies was extremely elaborate and complex. It was drawn up to the crown of the head, where it was surmounted by a large wing shaped headdress covered in rich fabric. This in turn was often decorated with various ornaments which were sewn or pinned into place upon it. Long pendant hair pins hung from the extremities.

 

A favourite treatment for the headings of such hair pins as well as ornaments which were sewn or pinned to the headdresses were Kingfisher feathers. These ornaments were usually made of gilded brass, the most commonly used patterns being flower sprays and various animals such as butterflies, bats and sea birds, together with the phoenix, symbol of status and wealth; The ornaments were made with small cells, similar to those found in Western enamel jewellery. However instead of enamel the spaces were filled with tiny cut out pieces of the beautiful iridescent blue kingfisher feathers.

 

The feathers were painstakingly cut to exact size to fit separate metal sections, and carefully attached with thin adhesive so they retained brilliant color and iridescence. This jewel like mosaic was often combined with semi precious materials such as pearls, jade, coral and turquoise. In the lesser pieces glass jewels and faux pearl beads were used.