Ceylon, Sri Lanka

As we neared the breakwater of Colombo, the capital, we saw not only these "listening" palms but spires and domes mingling with imposing buildings in the skyline. In the harbor, among vessels flying flags of many nations, a fleet of colorful baggalas from the Maldive Islands rode at anchor.

A few moments later we were standing on the Customs Plaza, looking down a long modern avenue of what was the Dutch stronghold and is still known as the Fort.

For nearly four and a half centuries this pear-shaped island off the tip of India has been under European influence and rule-first by the Portuguese and then successively by the Dutch and the British. But early in 1948-since the time of my sojourn there-Ceylon celebrated its independence, becoming the first British Crown Colony to attain Dominion status.

Fondly the inhabitants call their island Lanka, a name often translated "resplendent."

Under the Grand Oriental Hotel arcade, the first person to greet us was an elderly Sinhalese woman in her traditional low-necked, tight-fitting white bodice and sarong. The latter is also worn by Sinhalese men. She stood offering to newcomers from her little basket the lovely crochet and pillow laces which Ceylon women make.

Ricksha men immediately clamored for our fare, but not so persistently as one a few nights later who followed us while we took a long stroll, murmuring, "Funny lady and gentleman-walking one hour-no call ricksha." . At many of the fine buildings, defaced by lime smears of the betel-chewing populace, smiling shopkeepers greeted us. My old Sinhalese jeweler insisted that we enter his shop for a few minutes. He knew my weakness for Ceylon's rainbow-hued gems-rubies, sapphires, topazes, and amethysts. Even the poorer island women often boast earrings set with so-called Matara diamonds, which are pale zircons made colorless by burning.

My jeweler still wore a semicircular tortoise-shell comb at the back of his head, above a tiny knot of long, thinning hair. The custom of never cutting the hair prevails among the older generation; in the more remote villages cut hair brands one as having served a prison sentence.

Hovering over his treasures, the jeweler brought out a huge antique ring. It was studded with more than a dozen different gems, chosen to bring their wearer good fortune. Few places in the world have assembled so many treasures in such little space as this Fort shopping area.

Among my prized possessions, from a Ceylon family's treasured heirlooms, are a delicate coconut shell, carved in a bygone age by a Galle master, and a gold filigree creation by a Jaffna craftsman of old. This last is exquisitely set with pearls and rubies and mounted on polished yellow tortoise shell resembling amber. Jaffna's jewelers today limit themselves to simpler filigree.

Island repoussé always wins admiration. Craftsmen serve apprenticeship as youths at the Kandy Art Museum. There we saw them learning cutwork and repoussé on small brass articles. Later they work with silver and copper overlay, finally graduating to silver. Many of their designs are copied from stone carvings unearthed at ancient temples.

A wonderful repository of Lanka's ancient lore is Colombo Museum in Cinnamon Gardens, a cinnamon reserve in Dutch times. Now it is a residential quarter with spacious mansions set in lawns carpeted seasonally with the soft blue petals of the jacaranda. Many of its avenues become a riot of bloom as the flamboyants blaze forth in orange and flame.

Like a tonic was an early-morning canter through Victoria Park, where from several points the dome of the Town Hall looms through the trees. In the vicinity are modern hospitals.

My foreign visitors were always delighted with the splendid exhibits at the Museum where there are excellent copies in oil of the famous frescoes at Sigiriya.

Dutch furniture sent me on a hunt for one of those rare Dutch chests ornamented in brass and silver and studded with copper V. O. C. (Vereemgde Oost - Indische Compagnie) coins of the United East India Company…"