Publisher Description

Hard Rock is the best of British rock climbing.Featuring over fifty crags and sixty-nine routes in England, Scotland and Wales, it epitomises all that is great about traditional climbing in Great Britain.Ken Wilson's first edition of Hard Rock was published in 1974 and quickly established itself as the definitive representation of British rock climbing. Ken's vision for the book's format – part guidebook, part literary celebration and part coffee table visual showcase – is one that has been much copied but never equalled.In this new edition, editor Ian Parnell has ensured Hard Rock continues to honour Ken's original concept, in particular keeping the route, not the climber, centre stage. While the activity of climbing has undergone myriad changes since 1974 – sticky rubber, camming devices, and the rise of sport climbing and indoor climbing walls – many climbers are still drawn to the drama and challenge of traditionally protected climbing. And this is why Hard Rock is still as relevant now as it was in 1974.Stretching across the Scottish Highlands and Islands, the Lake District, the Pennines and the Peak District, North and South Wales and down to South-West England, the routes tackle big mountain walls, gritstone outcrops and epic sea cliff adventures. Focusing on the trad connoisseur's grade range of VS to E2, with additional routes at E3 and E4, the featured climbs are within reach of a majority of climbers. Timeless classics include The Bat on Ben Nevis, the Old Man of Hoy, the Central Buttress of Scafell, Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass, Vector at Tremadog, Right Unconquerable at Stanage Edge and Suicide Wall at Bosigran on the Cornish coast.Alongside many of the original essays, written by a formidable cast of climbers including Pete Crew, Ed Drummond, Royal Robbins, Chris Bonington, Hamish MacInnes and Al Alvarez, this new edition features thirteen new routes and pieces by Eleanor Fuller, Stephen Reid, Kevin Howett, David Pickford, Paul Harrison, John Lawrence Holden, Martin Moran, Paul Donnithorne and Emma Alsford. It is illustrated with all-new colour photography throughout.Hard Rock's timeless collection is sure to inspire for generations to come.

Author Biography

Ian Parnell has put climbing at the heart of his life for over thirty-five years. From a misguided start attempting routes without a rope with his sister at Symonds Yat, Ian's fascination with exploration has led him to establish new routes on the coastal cliffs of South West England and winter ascents across Scotland, including the first winter ascent of Sioux Wall on Ben Nevis. A renowned alpinist, his first ascents in the high Himalaya include the coveted South-West ridge of Annapurna III with Kenton Cool and John Varco in 2003. His wider climbing career has been equally diverse and includes the organisation of a Climbing World Championships, filming Sir Ranulph Fiennes on the North Face of the Eiger for ITN News and editing Climb magazine. These days he enjoys classic routes closer to his home in Sheffield, and taking his two daughters scrambling in the Peak District.

Table of Contents

PrefaceThe Development of Hard Rock Climbing in Britain by Ken WilsonScotland1 Dragon and Gob, Carnmore Crag, Wester Ross by Paddy Buckley2 The Needle, Shelter Stone Crag, Cairngorms by Ian Rowe3 King Rat and Goliath, Creag an Dubh-loch, Cairngorms by Greg Strange4 Angel Face, Beinn Eighe by Martin Moran5 Swastika Trilleachan Slabs, Glen Etive by Robin Campbell6 Shibboleth, Buachaille Etive Mor by Martin Boysen7 Raven's Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor by Hamish MacInnes8 Carnivore, Creag a' Bhancair by Jimmy Marshall9 Yo-Yo, Aonach Dubh by John Porteous10 Trapeze, Aonach Dubh by Allen Fyffe11 Centurion, Ben Nevis by Robin Campbell12 The Bat, Ben Nevis by Paul NunnScottish Islands13 The Old Man of Hoy, Orkney Islands by Chris Bonington14 The Great Prow, Isle of Skye by Phil Gribbon15 Vulcan Wall, Isle of Skye, by Kevin Howett16 Prophecy of Drowning, Pabbay by Eleanor Fuller17 South Ridge Direct, Isle of Arran by Ian RoweThe Lake District18 Central Buttress, Scafell by Geoff Oliver19 Ichabod, Scafell by Allan Austin20 Central Pillar, Esk Buttress by Paul Nunn21 Gormenghast, Heron Crag by Colin Taylor22 Engineer's Slabs, Gable Crag by Paul Nunn23 Praying Mantis, Goat Crag by Ian Roper24 Totalitarian, Raven Crag by Stephen Reid25 Extol, Dove Crag by Chris Bonington26 Nimrod, Dow Crag by John Lawrence Holden27 The Crack, Gimmer Crag by Ken Wilson28 Kipling Groove, Gimmer Crag by Mick BurkeNorth Wales29 Mousetrap, Anglesey by Nick Escourt30 Gogarth, Craig Gogarth by Ian McNaught-Davis31 Big Groove, Craig Gogarth by Richard Isherwood32 A Dream of White Horses, North Stack by Royal Robbins33 The Grooves, Cyrn Las by Jim Perrin34 Diagonal, Dinas Mot by Brian Wyvill35 Cenotaph Corner, Dinas Cromlech by Peter Crew36 Great Slab/Bow-Shaped Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew37 Great Wall, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Ed Drummond38 White Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew39 Slanting Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Dave Cook40 Vember, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Tony Smythe41 Dwm Castell, Cidwm by Richard Isherwood42 Vector, Tremadog Rocks by Jim Perrin43 The Groove, Llech Ddu by Les HolliwellSouth Wales44 Heart of Darkness, New Morning and Plane Sailing, Mowing Word/Stackpole, Pembroke by Emma Alsford45 Rock Idol and Zeppelin, Mother Carey's Kitchen, Pembroke by Paul DonnithornePennine and Peak46 North-West Girdle, Almscliff Crag by Dave Cook47 Carnage, Malham Cove by John Porter48 Right Unconquerable, Stanage Edge by Jim Perrin49 Valkyrie, Froggatt Edge by Nat Allen50 Elder Crack, Curbar Edge by Geoff Birtles51 Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe Tor by Paul Nunn52 Alcasan Stoney Middleton Dale by Paul Nunn53 Chee Tor Girdle Cheedale by Nat Allen54 Sirplum Cheedale by Paul Nunn55 Debauchery High Tor by Nat AllenSouth-West England56 Malbogies, Avon Gorge by Mike Thompson57 Coronation Street, Cheddar Gorge by Jim Perrin58. Double Diamond and Quatermass, Lundy by Paul Harrison59 Mars and Soul Sacrifice, Swanage by David Pickford60 Moonraker, Berry Head by Al Alvarez61 Bishop's Rib, Chair Ladder by Pat Littlejohn62 Suicide Wall and Bow Wall, Bosigran by Frank CanningsGradesScoop and Main OverhangAcknowledgementsIndex

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