"Van Cleef & Arpels: The Poetry of Time" by Michels Serres, Jean-Claude Sabrier, Sharon Kerman, and Guy De Peslouan.
NOTE: We have 75,000 books in our library, almost 10,000 different titles. Odds are we have other copies of this same title in varying conditions, some less expensive, some better condition. We might also have different editions as well (some paperback, some hardcover, oftentimes international editions). If you don’t see what you want, please contact us and ask. We’re happy to send you a summary of the differing conditions and prices we may have for the same title.
NOTE: This offering is for A BOOK. It is NOT for the watch depicted on the cover of the book. The watch costs $2 million. We do NOT have one for sale. This offering is ONLY for a book which depicts and describes the world’s most collectible and unique watches.
DESCRIPTION: Hardcover with dustjacket. Publisher: Editions Cercle D'art (2010). Pages: 216. Size: 13½ x 11½ x 1¼ inches; 6 pounds. The legendary business of Van Cleef & Arpels was established in Paris in 1898, following the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. The couple, along with Estelle's brother Charles Arpels, opened their first boutique in 1906, soon after joined by Julien Arpels. After more than 100 years, Van Cleef & Arpels are still renowned for their expertise in precious stones and have won particular acclaim for a groundbreaking gem-setting procedure known as the 'serti invisible' (invisible setting), whereby stones and gems are set in a side-by-side formation with no apparent metal or mounting visible from the front.
"Van Cleef & Arpels: The Poetry of Time" explores the beautiful watches created by this luxurious jeweler. Combining the spirit of invention with the love of precious gems, Van Cleef & Arpels create watches with delicate and elegant lines, pushing imagination and ingenuity to the forefront, endowing their creations with the Haute Jewelry spirit. The company makes a point of reviving traditional skills and developing new techniques, such as three-dimensional enamel and mother-of-pearl marquetry. Not content to juxtapose precious materials with exceptional gems, Van Cleef & Arpels, like the alchemists of old, instills a soul into its creations.
CONDITION: VERY GOOD. MASSIVE New (albeit "shop blemished") hardcover with dustjacket. Editions Cercle D'art (2010) 216 pages. The book seems by and large unread, i.e., merely flipped though. I'd guess first 15-20 pages were read, the remainder of the book merely flipped through, then put away never to be actually "read". At worst it's been read once by someone with an exceedingly light "hand". However the spine head was bumped. Though there's no visible prominent evidence from the outside of the book that the spine head was bumped (it was a very light bump), the bump was enough that all of the pages within the book echo that bump. Each page has a tiny crinkle/wrinkle at the upper inside (spine-side) corner, consequence of the spine head being bumped. Large, heavy books like this tend to get dragged across and bumped into book shelves as they are shelved and re-shelved, so it is not uncommon to see accelerated edge and corner shelfwear to both the dustjacket and covers of such huge, heavy books. Except for that faint wrinkle at the top, inside corner of each page, the inside of the book is otherwise pristine. Pages are clean, crisp, unmarked, (otherwise) unmutilated, tightly bound, and beyond the first 15-20 pages, seemingly unread (based on appearances, merely flipped through once or twice). At worst it is possible perhaps, that someone with an extremely light hand may have read the book in its entirety, but there's no evidence supporting that, just acknowledging that it is always possible. So except for the tiny dent/wrinkle to the top inside corner of each page within the book, the inside of the book is otherwise pristine. From the outside, first, there are about half a dozen tiny, faint, tan-colored specks to the top surface of the closed page edges. They're not age spots, I can only guess they are tea or coffee, but not drips or droplets, merely (sub) pin-head sized specks. They are of course visible only when book is closed, not to individual pages, only to the mass of closed page edges (sometimes referred to as the "page block"). Second, if you remove the dustjacket and examine the back cover intently, you'll notice a couple of faint dimples or impressions caused by someone placing something heavy atop the book, when the book was laying flat; i.e., something was pressed into the surface of the covers. The couple of impressions are very faint, and do not damage the binding in any manner...they're just there, and in the interests of full disclosure, we make a note accordingly. Again, they are very small, faint impressions, and only observable if you remove the dustjacket. Otherwise the dustjacket and full cloth covers evidence only very faint edge and corner shelfwear (but no other blemishes of any significance, i.e., tears, chips, etc.). The condition of the book is not too far distant in overall condition with what would otherwise pass as "new", but "shop-soiled" stock from an open-shelf book store (such as Barnes & Noble, or B. Dalton, for instance) wherein patrons are permitted to browse open stock (and drink tea or coffee), and so otherwise "new" books often have become slightly blemished and/or show handling/shelf/browsing wear. Satisfaction unconditionally guaranteed. In stock, ready to ship. No disappointments, no excuses. PROMPT SHIPPING! HEAVILY PADDED, DAMAGE-FREE PACKAGING! Meticulous and accurate descriptions! Selling rare and out-of-print ancient history books on-line since 1997. We accept returns for any reason within 30 days! #8655h.
PLEASE SEE DESCRIPTIONS AND IMAGES BELOW FOR DETAILED REVIEWS AND FOR PAGES OF PICTURES FROM INSIDE OF BOOK.
PLEASE SEE PUBLISHER, PROFESSIONAL, AND READER REVIEWS BELOW.
PUBLISHER REVIEWS:
REVIEW: Whether one sees it as an abstract concept or as a strictly scientific principle, Time is part of life … of our lives. We run after it, we try to hold on to it, catch up with it, or stay ahead of it… but no matter how hard we try, Time alone sets the pace, majestically.
For Van Cleef & Arpels, Time is synonymous with poetry. The artistic challenge is to capture its fleeting essence without ever restricting it. Each season, the Maison creates dreamlike timepieces with a bold creativity that never ceases to amaze.
Symbols of a partnership between the best watch-making and jewelry savoir-faire, they embody a heartbeat, a breath held back, an emotion, a memory, or an instant of happiness that longs to be enriched with new and precious moments. A Van Cleef & Arpels Timepiece offers more than art, beauty, or history. It represents the very "Poetry of Time".
REVIEW: Michel Serres, philosopher and historian of the philosophy of science, is the author of many books and essays. Franco Cologni is a writer and historian and the author of many books on the history of horology and jewelry. Jean-Claude Sabrier, an antique dealer specializing in horology from 1960 to 1980, has served as a consultant to the Arts and Techniques Museum of the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris, as well as to museums in France and abroad. Sharon Kerman, after studies in history and musicology in the United States, has done research and written on such diverse subjects as automata, mechanical singing birds, horological history, Art Deco sculpture, and enamelling. Most of the photographs in this book were taken by Guy Lucas de Pesloüan, a photographer who specializes in still lifes and objects.
PROFESSIONAL REVIEWS:
REVIEW: For Van Cleef & Arpels, Time is synonymous of poetry. Capturing its fleeting essence without ever restricting it, every season the Maison creates dreamlike timepieces with a bold creativity that never ceases to surprise. Symbols of the alliance between the best of watchmaking and jewellery know-how, they embody a heartbeat, a breath held back, an emotion, a memory or instant of happiness that longs to be enriched with new and precious moments.
From 1910, the Maison chose to express its art through timekeeping jewels of distinctive and timeless style. Since then, Van Cleef & Arpels timepieces have never ceased to delicately combine precious stones and materials and embody the Maison’s wondrous alchemist’s touch: to give soul to each of its timekeeping creations.
In these exceptional timepieces, the minutes and hours that pass are the constantly repeated symbols of a time that is charged with emotion and intimate memories. Van Cleef & Arpels explores this time with its Poetic Complications and Extraordinary Dials collections, and in its High Jewellery watches.
High Jewellery timepieces represent the quintessence of Van Cleef & Arpels savoir-faire: the wonderful work of the Mains d’Or or Golden hands, the demanding selection of stones with character, enhanced by a creative audacity that constantly tests the limits of dreams and defines a unique style.
Extraordinary Dials use the techniques of enamelling, mother-of-pearl inlay or gold engraving. Each dial tells a story, an original tale expressing true feelings of affection, admiration or love.
Born of the imagination of Van Cleef & Arpels, the Poetic Complications timepieces unveil a new way to perceive Fine Watchmaking: the discreet precision of the complication movements is combined with the creative virtuosity of the Maison’s workshops. Van Cleef & Arpels thus bestows an intimate dimension on to these precious timepieces, that of Time that moves to the pace of happiness and emotions.
Le Pont des Amoureux Poetic Complication watch was awarded the Ladies’ Watch Prize at the Grand Prix Horloger de Genève 2010.
REVIEW: Van Cleef & Arpels probably makes the world's most beautiful watches...that I would not wear. Of course they have plenty of watches I would strap on in a heartbeat, but they are just too nice. Too much work goes into making this art. Plus, many of them are for women. I wouldn't want to even risk a cosmetic interruption. If I had the money I would get them to sit in cool little displays on my desk to appreciate what watch dial art is really all about.
For 2012, Van Cleef & Arpels will release a limited edition set of watches that not only have extremely beautiful dials, but also innovative movements. This is all part of their ongoing collection of "poetic complications" that stress emotional interest versus convenience or functional enhancements. These are the 2012 Poetic Wish watches - for him and her.
There is a love story that Van Cleef & Arpels likes to play with. It involves a couple in Paris that prefer to look longingly at each other from a distance or occasionally meet on bridges to kiss at midnight. This shy duo has been the inspiration for a range of watches that keeps getting more interesting. This time the story is furthered in a duo of watches. The men's watch has our lovestruck protagonist standing on the Notre Dame cathedral on a starry Paris night. In the background you see the Eiffel Tower. You can see how the platform he is on doubles as an hour indicator and how the star in the sky indicates the minutes - but only on demand.
Our lonely lass is standing on the same Eiffel Tower on the ladies' piece. In the background is the Notre Dame - complete with stained glass windows. The watches are meant to serve as perspectives from the man and woman in the story. The dials are gorgeous creations. Totally handmade with hours worth of engraving, painting, forming, and setting on each. One dial can take weeks or months to completely finish. The dials are mostly engraved gold, with enamel work, mother-of-pearl sculpting, and miniature painting.
The principle complication here is a five minute repeater. The trick is that activation of the repeater is the only way to see the time - on the dial that is. Turning one of the crowns activates the five minute repeater, which also activates the dial animation. The figurine moves along a linear path indicating the hour, while either a star (men's Midnight model) or kite (ladies' model) moves across the sky to indicate the minutes. A five-minute repeater will use a series of gongs and hammers to sound a song that tells the time to the closest five minute mark. Charming.
Turn the watch over to see the beautiful movement and you'll find a few surprises. The first of which is the gong system. Rather than be attached to the movement, the gongs are actually attached to the rear sapphire crystal caseback window. This was done to increase resonance - and thus the volume of the minute repeater sound. You can also see the time back here on a few separate dials that allow you to view and set the time. The exclusive Swiss mechanical movement is manually wound with about 60 hours of power reserve. As you can see, the complication is fun and emotionally charged versus being "useful" per se. Certainly the hallmark of a "poetic complication".
The watch cases fit the typical men's and women's Van Cleef & Arpels design aesthetic. One lug for women, two for men. The cases designs are elegant and serve to showcase these wonderful art creations so well. Though in the future I would like to see some new cases from the brand. Both watches are in 18k white gold and the cases are fitted with diamonds on the bezel and lugs. There are lovely mother-of-pearl cabochons in the crown. The result is a luxurious creation that focuses more on the art and effort versus the bling. For the amount of precious stones used on your typical Van Cleef & Arpels, this is a very elegant and down-to-earth brand.
The two Poetic Wish watches go together thematically but are sold separately. They also come with special wooden boxes that recreate the dial designs on the boxes in a beautiful way. Van Cleef & Arpels watch presentation boxes are stunning collectors items unto themselves. I hope they come out with a book on this (hint, hint). Van Cleef & Arpels will create a limited amount of the Poetic Wish watches, but I am not sure how many. Word from them was that buying the pair together will cost about $1,000,000.
REVIEW: Van Cleef & Arpels inaugurated its "Poetry of Time" exhibition in Dubai, with Managing Director for Middle East and India, Alessandro Maffi, on hand to greet the crowd of friends, media and other distinguished guests. “This year” he said, “the Maison explores the dimensions of High Watchmaking with endless imagination and poetry.” The exhibition is also memorialized in a hardcover catalog of the same name.
Within the themes of ‘Enchanting Nature’ and ‘Jewels that Tell the Time’, a series of timepieces from the Extraordinary Dials™ and Poetic Complications™ collections illustrates the House’s unique watchmaking expertise reputed for its happy marriage between technical prowess and pure emotion, where intricate mechanisms join artistic techniques, sparkle and imagination to create “a poetic world where enchantment comes to life”.
From the ‘Enchanting Nature’ theme, we discover examples of ‘Lady Arpels Oiseaux Enchantées’ (enchanted birds) that combine hard stone marquetry with the mastered techniques of renowned feather artist Nelly Saunier, who creates 3 dimensional miniature birds from real feathers for stunning colors of shimmering and natural plumage on the ‘Extraordinary Dials’.
With ‘Jewels that Tell the Time’ from the Poetic Complications™ theme, we admire the delicate enameling techniques on watch dials and the stories they tell, as they turn slowly in 24 hours to accompany the passage of day and night, brought to life by a self-winding mechanical movement. One example is the ‘Lady Arpels Jour Nuit’ ‘Coccinelles’ timepiece, with a disk of cloisonné enamel that reveals two ladybirds by day, followed by a bouquet of diamond-set flowers to reflect the glow of night.
The exhibition also presents a Middle East exclusivity from the Charms Watch collection: the new Charms Malachite numbered special edition timepiece. For the first time, the curved 32 mm case is in yellow gold, embellished with two rows of diamonds on the bezel and a rotating diamond-paved charm featuring the iconic Alhambra® motif. The strap is interchangeable, in shiny green or matt white alligator.
Van Cleef & Arpels also highlights its Patrimony this year, with a unique exhibition of the Cadenas® watch, created in 1935 as a jewel with a watch dial and padlock-style clasp, reintroduced last year in nine different versions with bold and modern changes to the dial, clasp and stone settings.
REVIEW: Ever faithful to a poetic vision of life, Van Cleef & Arpels has introduced a distinctive dimension to the world of watchmaking. Created with passion and meticulous craftsmanship, each model combines creative inventiveness with a sense of wonder. Drawing inspiration from nature, astronomy, love stories and couture, Van Cleef & Arpels depicts moments of grace, luck or beauty, offering a dreamlike perspective on the passage of time.
Combining two fields of expertise – the measurement of time and the excellence of jewelry savoir-faire – the Maison presents exquisitely precious High Jewelry timepieces, glittering glamorously with precious stones. The wonders of the watchmaker’s craft bring stories to life on exceptional dials. The Maison has a unique expression of nature made of refinement, delicacy and benevolence.
Capturing the constant renewal of fauna and flora, blooming flowers and flying beauties were made alive by unbounded creativity and technical prowess. Intricate complications and retrograde movements allow the Maison to craft timepieces inspired by whimsical fairies, elegant ballerinas and enchanting love stories to mark the flitting hours with magic and romance. With the Poetic Astronomy™ chapter, Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage to the dazzling stars and universe, telling the stories of constellations on the wrist.
REVIEW: Famed French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels is hosting an extraordinary exhibit and series of workshops starting today, to mark the launch of this year's annual concept 'The Poetry of Time' in the region.
The exhibition is established by the label to reveal its latest timepieces in the Middle East, a journey into the universe the brand, where time is synonymous with poetry, and Van Cleef & Arpels present dreamlike timepieces with bold creativity.
This year, the stars of the show are three styles; the 'Ballerine Enchantéee' from the Poetic Complications collection, 'Lady Arpels Papillon Extraordinaire' from Extraordinary Dials collection and 'Alhambra Talisman' full pavée, among many other creations on display.
It's an event that calls upon true expertise, and gives rare insight into the craftsmanship it takes to create such pieces. To do this, the brand is hosting workshops dedicated to various enameling techniques – just one of the talented skills used to embellish the watchmaker's art.
In short, enameling ensures that each creation is a unique piece, and brings an item to life by the handiwork of skilled craftsmen. Colored, transparent glass is crushed into a powder and mixed with liquid before being vitrified at high temperature, which seals its appearance, making it an object of desire in an instant.
The Poetry of Time exhibition takes place in The Dubai Mall's Grand Atrium from January 31-February 8. A hardcover catalog has also been published which has been viewed and is highly recommended.
REVIEW: “Life is too important to be taken seriously”, said Oscar Wilde once. This exact philosophy pervades the stories of Van Cleef & Arpels which truly enchant me. Between 12 and 20 October Van Cleef & Arpels opened her book of verses in the Grand Atrium of Dubai Mall and invited the playful to join a magical fairy tale. The exhibition was entitled The Poetry of Time after the recent series of the mechanical and aesthetical masterpieces of VCA.
The four corners of the installation brought us to different chapters of the story. Starting with the Lady Arpels Féérie watch presented in 2007, the diamond fairy shows the time with her wand and wings while holding a baby girl in the cradle. Years passed, the baby grew up and discovered Paris, the City of Love on the Une Journée à Paris watch. We are witness to the young lady’s first rendezvous and kiss over the Saine as the two lovers come closer with every minute passing on the Pont des Amoureux watch.
The tale of lovers continued this year on the Lady Arpels Poetic Wish and the Midnight Poetic Wish timepieces. On the Lady Arpels Poetic Wish the girl stands on the Eiffel Tower looking out to the distance and making a wish. Responding to her lonely heart the boy sends his message with a star from the top of the Notre-Dame, nearing the Eiffel Tower minute by minute on the Midnight Poetic Wish watch. The two Poetic Wish creations come in a precious wood cabinet with a mother-of-pearl inlay – forever uniting the two lovers.
A very interesting piece from the show was the 2012 Pierre Arpels watch, which pays tribute to his legendary thin, elegantly simple masterpiece from 1949. Presented on SIHH 2012, the new interpretation of the Pierre Arpels watch adheres to the traditional lines, but draws them in a contemporary style. The House also revealed pieces of its rich heritage as a few creations from the 1920s were shown from private collections.
REVIEW: Showcases the stunning watches of Van Cleef & Arpels. The book is as magnificent as are the timepieces.
READER REVIEWS:
REVIEW: This book is loaded with rich photos of VCA's beautiful timepieces. There are 79 pages with full color photos of ladies and men's watches with descriptions in both French and English. The watch in the photo is the centerpiece of Van Cleef & Arpels Midsummer Night's Dream high-jewelry collection depicting impish fairies rendered in sparkling gems (183 diamonds!). The brand combined the fairy motif with a complicated retrograde movement and created the $96,000 Lady Arpels Féerie watch. This book is perfect for luxury jewelry collectors or those of us who wish they were.
REVIEW: This book is a beautiful presentation of more modern VCA time pieces. The photography is stunning, the text is authentic. I was dazzled by the quality of the book! If you are a fan of these jewelers, this book is a must.
REVIEW: Gorgeous “coffee table” books. The photography and the time pieces are stunning.
ADDITIONAL BACKGROUND:
VINTAGE JEWELRY: How vintage jewelry brings old-time glamour to the red carpet. Among all the gemstones paraded on the red carpets of Cannes, Venice, Hollywood and New York, some pieces leave an indelible impression. At this year’s Manus X Machina-themed Met Gala, the award for best supporting accessory went to a majestic diamond peacock, its tail curving over one strap of Uma Thurman’s custom-made Ralph Lauren ivory gown. Created as a special order by Cartier in 1948 and comprising 83.89ct of diamonds, the brooch demonstrated the power of vintage when it comes to making a statement on the red carpet.
"Vintage jewelry brings character and a sense of nostalgia to a look," says LA-based British stylist Tanya Gill, who dresses stars such as Kate Winslet, Julie Christie and Jane Fonda. "I love the craftsmanship, the history and the patina. Sometimes I’ll build characters through the jewelry as though I am creating a look for a film."
Gill was responsible for the eye-catching vintage Bulgari bib necklace that Minnie Driver wore to the Vanity Fair Oscars party in 2014. Made in 1965, the necklace caught Gill’s eye at Bulgari’s Decades of Glamour pre-Oscar event. "It struck me as so exquisite in design and colour, with the craftsmanship of the turquoise, cabochon emeralds, cabochon amethysts and diamonds, that it would be a unique statement for the right personality," she says. "It was perfect for the statuesque beauty of Minnie Driver."
It’s not only Hollywood’s grandes dames who carry off vintage glamour. At the Met Gala, Anna Wintour’s 29-year-old daughter, Bee Shaffer, was every inch the ingénue in 19th-century diamond chandelier earrings and a slim diamond headband by the New York-based vintage-jewelry specialist Fred Leighton, while at the reopening of Cartier’s Fifth Avenue mansion in September, Sienna Miller accessorised a fresh, floaty Valentino dress with a suite of diamond and emerald Cartier jewels from the 1920s.
The trend for vintage jewelry on the red carpet was kick-started in 1996, when Prada borrowed a 19th-century opal choker from Fred Leighton for a then-29-year-old Nicole Kidman. "It was a wonderful moment for us," recalls Rebecca Selva, Fred Leighton’s chief creative officer and public relations director. "It commanded tremendous attention because it was so different."
The collaboration sparked a long-term relationship with Kidman and began two decades of "beautiful and iconic moments" for Fred Leighton. Selva cites Charlize Theron’s appearance at the Vanity Fair Oscars party in 2000 as one of her favorites: clasped to the 25-year-old’s tangerine Vera Wang dress were two art-deco diamond clips. "Vera fell in love with the clips and then created the dress around them," says Selva. "The whole image was beautiful; it was Hollywood glamour in the most sophisticated and refined way."
Nowadays, as celebrity outfits are dissected on social media in real time, red-carpet appearances have even more effect on what used to be a very private, elitist market. "The internet has been great in spreading the message about vintage jewelry," says Selva. "There’s so much to discover – people realise it’s not what they thought it was. It’s not your grandmother’s jewelry, and nothing is so rarefied that it can’t be worn. Even our tiaras can be worn as headbands."
For Selva, increased visibility helps to dispel the myth that antique jewelry is outdated. "We have an unbelievable 19th-century diamond snake necklace that looks like the coolest piece anyone could wear, yet it’s almost 120 years old," she says. "It’s waiting for its red carpet moment."
Vintage jewelry’s reputation in the fashion world has been elevated further by Fred Leighton’s collaboration with Net-a-Porter, which began in 2014. Both antique jewels and new pieces from the Fred Leighton Collection (which are inspired by vintage designs) are available online, with prices ranging from £1,500 for a simple pair of drop earrings to tens of thousands for signed vintage pieces by the likes of Cartier, David Webb or Buccellati.
"We’ve had a really positive response, with jewelry often selling out within minutes," says Sophie Quy, fine-jewelry buyer at Net-a-Porter, who travels to the Fred Leighton store in New York up to four times a year to look for pieces. Diamonds, pearls and turquoise are bestsellers, along with chunky gold chain bracelets that customers wear stacked with modern designs. The site also works with Fred Leighton to source vintage pieces on demand.
Antique jewelry has also found a place in uber-fashionable department store Dover Street Market, which carries a selection of vintage rings and Victorian and Georgian tiaras by British jeweler Bentley & Skinner alongside its roster of modern brands. This departure from the notion of dusty vintage emporiums reflects an increasing desire to own something one-of-a-kind. "Vintage jewelry is much more interesting than anything you can buy now," says Max Michelson of the London vintage specialist SJ Phillips. "Instead of being tied to this year’s range, we have 400 years’ worth of ranges, so you’ll always find something that fits."
He says 20th-century pieces are far and away the most popular. "Everyone wants art deco because it’s stylish and nicely made, and being set in platinum it looks closer to modern jewelry than earlier pieces, which are set in silver. There’s also interest in bold pieces from the 1950s and ’60s." Unlike its American counterpart, SJ Phillips doesn’t shout about red-carpet appearances. "That type of advertising works in the States but not here," Michelson says. "Even if a piece has been worn by someone famous, we don’t tell people."
While signed vintage pieces carry a price premium, there are smart buys to be found. "There are some under-appreciated American makers such as Raymond Yard," says Michelson. "But there are also unsigned pieces that are a match to the big names but half the price." The main thing is that it speaks to the wearer. "We never claim that anything is going to be a good investment. It might be, but we’re not an investment broker." Rebecca Selva agrees: "If jewelry is fine and fabricated beautifully, it will hold its value, but I would certainly never sell it as an investment. It’s more about the joy you get from it." [Telegraph (UK)].
VINTAGE JEWELRY: Dust off your old jewelry boxes and open-up the family vault because you might just be sitting on a fortune. That’s the message from London auctioneer Bonhams this week, as they announced new figures showing the soaring value of vintage jewels. Bonhams say the value of antique and period jewelry has increased by over 80% in the last decade - outdoing average house prices in England, which increased by 47% over the same period. Estimates have been abandoned on auction days, as items have been fetching double, sometimes triple, their predictions amid fierce bidding wars. And it’s prompted the auctioneer to launch a campaign urging the public to seek valuations for any forgotten gems they might have stashed away.
“An Art Deco Cartier emerald and diamond bracelet that we sold in December was estimated at £80,000-£100,000 and it made £210,000,” says Jean Ghika, head of jewelry at Bonhams UK and Europe. “These types of instances are our key indicators of a gain in momentum. It’s the quality of craftsmanship that is resonating with buyers, the types of stones that were used back then, compared to a modern piece, are special.” Vogue’s jewelry editor Carol Woolton isn’t surprised by the jewelry market’s strength in the current economic climate. “There are so few investments that are reliable right now - stocks are in a state of insecurity, but gold and diamonds will never be a risky purchase for a rich person trying to maintain their wealth,” she says. “There are limited resources in the world, mines will run out and there is a finite number of precious stones - that’s what gives it a rarity value.”
Even if you haven’t got a spare Cartier brooch in the attic to auction off, it’s worth noting that the trend described extends beyond designer names, and applies to specific stones, metals and eras, too. If the catwalks are revisiting silhouettes from a particular decade, the interest will echo through the jewelry world. “Signed items from the Art Deco period and antiques over 100 years old will always be in demand,” says Ghika. “But we’re now seeing post-war period, 1950s jewelry, as well as pieces from the 1960s and 1970s really performing well too.”
The thing that often prevents people from having their jewelry valued is the assumption that family heirlooms have been set aside because they’re no longer fashionable won’t be worth anything. “People often look at their items without understanding their importance in the context of jewelry history,” says Ghika. “We recently discovered a wonderful and rare Chanel Twist necklace, which a client had brought to a valuation day, but had thought it was just a piece of costume jewelry. But Chanel did make real jewelry as well as pieces in non-precious materials.” This 1950s necklace had a discreet engraving on the inside, indicating that it was actually designed by Coco herself, and it subsequently smashed its estimate of £6,000, fetching £68,500 on auction day.
So how can you tell if something is valuable when digging through an old jewelry stash? Start with the logos and hallmarks, suggests Ghika, noting that the big names (Cartier, Tiffany, Bulgari, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels) will always be winners, but that key names from modern eras (like Andrew Grima of the 1960s, or John Donald of the 1970s) will have equally held their value. Next you should assess the piece’s construction; do the stones have rough edges, are they generously packed in, or was its maker trying to scrimp by using more metal, less diamonds? Even the battered and broken is not entirely beyond hope. “It’s not necessarily the end of the world if something has had some damage,” says Ghika. “Professional repairs, if done well, can be discreet. We have had items come into us in two pieces before and, after it is mended, it hasn’t greatly impacted on the value.”
The best way to truly know what something might be worth is, of course, to get it valued by a professional. Because it is unlikely that you will be able to tell that the sapphires in granny’s heirloom ring were super-desirable specimens from the Kashmir region or the product of a rare mining community that was only operational for a ten years at the end of the 19th Century. “The Bonhams website offers the option to submit photos if you want to get an initial impression from our experts, then we hold regular valuation days all over the UK,” advises Ghika. What you can do for yourself, though, is take care of the stocks you’ve got - whether you’re ready to sell them or not. “If you ever think you might sell jewelry on, then you must keep the boxes,” urges Woolton. “The boxes and the paperwork for stones will really add to their value and save a lot of confusion as to what something is when you sell.”
The worst thing you can do is to let your old jewelry rattle around in a disorganised box. “Don’t over-clean old pieces,” Ghika also warns. “Part of the history is the pattern that it has and if it’s stripped off then it lacks some of its soul.” Other expert tips include not keeping hard and soft stones together to prevent erosion, wiping pearls with a cloth after every wear to remove any oils or perfume, and even splitting pairs of earrings into individual soft pouches so that they don’t rub together. If you’re keen to run with 'gems over property’ as your new investment mantra, the experts say you may have to wait a while for the dividends if you choose more recent pieces. “jewelry takes a long time to appreciate,” says Ghika, who suggests buying classics distinct to particular makers, like Cartier’s Panthère collection. Woolton, meanwhile, tips Dior’s fine jeweler Victoire de Castellane as one who will create the “masterpieces of our time.”
One thing all experts agree on however, is that primarily jewelry should be worn and enjoyed, with any increase in value seen as an added bonus. “It’s all very well owning these wonderful things,” says Woolton. “But if investors lock them away and don’t wear them then you have to ask; where’s the fun in that?” [Telegraph (UK)].
VINTAGE JEWELRY: The rise of online vintage jewelry auctions. As the Blue Moon diamond gets set for auction, our expert has the lowdown on the growing popularity of online sales which is making it easier than ever to bid for precious pieces. The global reach of the internet has raised the profiles of local salerooms and consumer confidence with it. When I was an auctioneer for Sotheby’s it was a one-person show; quite the adrenaline rush, the aim was to keep the “room” engaged in enthusiastic bidding. Today, with online sales increasing, auctions are just as busy but with fewer people actually in the room. Some of the thrill has gone but the benefit of online auctions is that they’ve boosted the profile of provincial salerooms, making them a force to be reckoned with.
At Woolley & Wallis Salisbury Salerooms, for instance, an Art Nouveau Lalique haircomb came up for auction last year. The piece was notable for two reasons: highly collectable names such as Lalique were once the preserve of well-known auction houses. Now, the global reach of the internet has raised the profiles of local salerooms and consumer confidence with it. But the haircomb made a particular impact because it had previously been bought at an auction in Wellington, New Zealand, where it was erroneously catalogued as plastic and sold for around £2,000. Woolley & Wallis’s sale attributed its genuine provenance as horn, and sold it for £29,000.
Here’s my guide to noted provincial auction houses which also offer online auctions. According to Jonathan Edwards, associate director at Woolley & Wallis auctioneers in Wiltshire, underbidders are making a big impact on prices being realized at auction today. There is also the fact that bids are coming not only from the UK but internationally, too. In May last year a natural pearl necklace was sold to an online bidder at the Wiltshire auctioneers for a staggering £89,000, against an estimate of £50,000-70,000. It is the highest-priced jewel sold online at Woolley & Wallis to date.
Fellows auctioneers, which offers more than 40 specialist jewelry sales a year, is witnessing a substantial annual increase in its online sales, which represents around 45 per cent of its turnover now. “Rare pieces are going out to a global marketplace and there is no snobbery about which auction house you bid in any more,” says Geoff Whitefield, insurance manager at Fellows. A client who thought a pair of earrings were costume jewelry was staggered when they went under the hammer for £25,000 this year. Fellows is holding jewelry auctions throughout November and December
Bellmans recently sold a pair of Twenties French platinum-and-diamond bracelets, which linked together to also form a necklace, for £14,000. Jonathan Pratt, managing director at Bellmans, advises that anyone considering buying from an online auction should first check the saleroom’s professional accreditation. “Look for trade-association endorsement, such as the Society of Fine Art Auctioneers and Valuers (SOFAA), and the Association of Accredited Auctioneers (AAA),” he says. It’s also worth checking that auction jewelry specialists are qualified and have obtained a recognized gemological certificate. Bellmans is holding a jewelry auction on 4 December
The-saleroom.com started its live webcast auctions in 2006. Visitors to the site can browse auction catalogues and place bids over the internet in real time, with live audio and video feeds direct from the auction rooms. The site hosts jewelry auctions throughout the year, so if you are looking for a particular item, simply type keywords into the search engine and it will list suitable lots.
The most important sales are still the preserve of international auction houses Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams, not least because of their global reach and relationships with leading collectors and dealers. These are the sales where you will see jewels that will take your breath away, including the Blue Moon diamond going on sale at Sotheby’s Geneva on 11 November. The largest fancy vivid blue, internally flawless 12.03ct diamond ever to come up for auction, with an estimate of US$35-55million, looks likely to break all previous records.
“Auctioneers have adapted quickly to the demand for online bidding,” says Keith Penton, head of Christie’s London jewelry department. “It brings added interest and excitement to the atmosphere of the saleroom, particularly when the prospective buyer’s location is revealed to be in a far-flung location; it’s not unusual nowadays to hear: ‘sold to you on the internet in Bogota’.” (Note: Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams are not part of a sourcing portal platform so you will need to go to the individual websites to watch live auctions.)
For Bonhams, which last year conducted 43 jewelry sales around the world, online bidding has encouraged a new clientele. “It’s about bringing the auction experience to millions of people who have never set foot in a saleroom before,” explains Matthew Girling, global CEO and director of jewelry. Online bidders accounted for more than £5m of Bonhams jewelry sales in 2014. This is also reinforced by the increase in volume of registrations it is seeing at Bonhams monthly Knightsbridge jewelry sales.
Sotheby’s has also witnessed an increase in the number of online buyers participating in their worldwide jewelry sales over the past five years. In a 12-month period between 2013 and 2014, it saw a staggering 42 per cent increase in online bidding. So when that “Blue Moon” diamond goes up for auction at Sotheby’s Geneva, make sure you switch on your computer, get out the champagne, and witness a unique gem making history.
Anyone can listen to or watch a live auction by simply clicking on “view as a guest”, although for data protection reasons you will not be able to see anyone bidding in the room. At Sotheby’s and Christie’s major Geneva, New York and Hong Kong sales, both auction houses have their own facility where you need to register on the website to follow the action, which can make for compulsive viewing. If you want to register to bid, you’ll be required to answer a series of security questions and, ultimately, it is still the individual auction houses that will accept your application if you’re registering interest through a sourcing portal.
Once you’ve bid you have entered a binding contract with the auction house and if you are bidding via a sourcing portal such as thesaleroom.com there is a 3 per cent handling charge added to the final price after the buyer’s premium. Make sure you take a good hard look at all the images – including at the reverse image – as well as at the hallmarks. If the auctioneer has stipulated what the item is, then that is their guarantee. Also make sure you’ve checked dimensions so that there are no surprises when your item arrives and is much smaller or bigger than you’d hoped.
View the items first and build a relationship with the auction house: it is always reassuring if you know who you are talking to at the other end of the phone when advice is needed. [Telegraph (UK)].
SHIPPING & RETURNS/REFUNDS: We always ship books domestically (within the USA) via USPS INSURED media mail (“book rate”). Most international orders cost an additional $19.99 to $53.99 for an insured shipment in a heavily padded mailer. However this book is quite large and heavy, too large to fit into a flat rate mailer. Therefore the shipping costs are somewhat higher than what is otherwise ordinary. There is also a discount program which can cut postage costs by 50% to 75% if you’re buying about half-a-dozen books or more (5 kilos+). Our postage charges are as reasonable as USPS rates allow.
ADDITIONAL PURCHASES do receive a VERY LARGE discount, typically about $5 per book (for each additional book after the first) so as to reward you for the economies of combined shipping/insurance costs. Your purchase will ordinarily be shipped within 48 hours of payment. We package as well as anyone in the business, with lots of protective padding and containers. All of our shipments are fully insured against loss, and our shipping rates include the cost of this coverage (through stamps.com, Shipsaver.com, the USPS, UPS, or Fed-Ex).
Please note for international purchasers we will do everything we can to minimize your liability for VAT and/or duties. But we cannot assume any responsibility or liability for whatever taxes or duties may be levied on your purchase by the country of your residence. If you don’t like the tax and duty schemes your government imposes, please complain to them. We have no ability to influence or moderate your country’s tax/duty schemes. International tracking is provided free by the USPS for certain countries, other countries are at additional cost. We do offer U.S. Postal Service Priority Mail, Registered Mail, and Express Mail for both international and domestic shipments, as well United Parcel Service (UPS) and Federal Express (Fed-Ex). Please ask for a rate quotation. We will accept whatever payment method you are most comfortable with.
If upon receipt of the item you are disappointed for any reason whatever, I offer a no questions asked 30-day return policy. Send it back, I will give you a complete refund of the purchase price; 1) less our original shipping/insurance costs, 2) less any non-refundable fees imposed by eBay. Please note that though they generally do, eBay may not always refund payment processing fees on returns beyond a 30-day purchase window. So except for shipping costs and any payment processing fees not refunded by eBay, we will refund all proceeds from the sale of a return item. Obviously we have no ability to influence, modify or waive eBay policies.
ABOUT US: Prior to our retirement we used to travel to Eastern Europe and Central Asia several times a year seeking antique gemstones and jewelry from the globe’s most prolific gemstone producing and cutting centers. Most of the items we offer came from acquisitions we made in Eastern Europe, India, and from the Levant (Eastern Mediterranean/Near East) during these years from various institutions and dealers. Much of what we generate on Etsy, Amazon and Ebay goes to support worthy institutions in Europe and Asia connected with Anthropology and Archaeology. Though we have a collection of ancient coins numbering in the tens of thousands, our primary interests are ancient/antique jewelry and gemstones, a reflection of our academic backgrounds.
Though perhaps difficult to find in the USA, in Eastern Europe and Central Asia antique gemstones are commonly dismounted from old, broken settings – the gold reused – the gemstones recut and reset. Before these gorgeous antique gemstones are recut, we try to acquire the best of them in their original, antique, hand-finished state – most of them originally crafted a century or more ago. We believe that the work created by these long-gone master artisans is worth protecting and preserving rather than destroying this heritage of antique gemstones by recutting the original work out of existence. That by preserving their work, in a sense, we are preserving their lives and the legacy they left for modern times. Far better to appreciate their craft than to destroy it with modern cutting.
Not everyone agrees – fully 95% or more of the antique gemstones which come into these marketplaces are recut, and the heritage of the past lost. But if you agree with us that the past is worth protecting, and that past lives and the produce of those lives still matters today, consider buying an antique, hand cut, natural gemstone rather than one of the mass-produced machine cut (often synthetic or “lab produced”) gemstones which dominate the market today. We can set most any antique gemstone you purchase from us in your choice of styles and metals ranging from rings to pendants to earrings and bracelets; in sterling silver, 14kt solid gold, and 14kt gold fill. When you purchase from us, you can count on quick shipping and careful, secure packaging. We would be happy to provide you with a certificate/guarantee of authenticity for any item you purchase from us. There is a $3 fee for mailing under separate cover. I will always respond to every inquiry whether via email or eBay message, so please feel free to write.