Specification :

Harley Davidson Big Twin models 1989-1999

Harley Davidson Softail models (Heritage, Fat Boy, Custom, Springer Etc.) 1989-1999

Harley Davidson Dyna models 1991-1998

Harley Davidson FLT and FLHT - Carburettor models 1989-1996 (Except EFI)

Features:

Condition: New

Type:Voltage Regulator Rectifier

Material:Metal + Plastic

Color:Black

Placement:Right, Front

Warranty:1 Year

Direct replacement to your original unit.

Plug-and-play, direct fit, easy installation.

Higher grade of electric components.

Hole Diameter：8mm / 0.31"

Approx Size:100mm x 70mm x 40mm(Length x Width x Height) / 3.93x  2.75 x 1.57 inch

Voltage:12 Volt

Replacement Part Numbers: 74519-88, 74519-88A H1988

Package Includes:

1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier

Purchase Note:

*Please call your local dealer to verify the correct part number. And the compatibility chart is for reference only, NOT 100% accurate.
*Buyer is responsible to make sure that this part fits your car first before purchasing.

*Please check the item and pictures for conformity before you purchase.
*If this item doesn't work as you expected, please contact us and we will solve it for you!

*You can distinguish specific model of an automobile by VIN(Vehicle Identification Number).
* vin(Vehicle Identification Number) consists of total 17 English letters and arabic digits.
*vin does not include the letters I (i), O (o), and Q (q) (to avoid confusion with numerals 1 and 0).

How to Test the Regulator Rectifier for Failure 

In most motorcycles, the regulator and rectifier are located together in the same unit, but other older models have them installed separately. Here’s what you need to do to test your rectifier for failure:

• Start by disconnecting the wires in your bike and switching the multimeter to diode function.
• Take a look at the positive diode by inserting the positive lead into the bike’s positive diode.
• Next, connect your negative lead to the stator inputs. You shouldn’t see any readings on the meter yet.
• Assuming everything looks good at this point, connect the positive diode to the negative lead before connecting the positive lead to all stator inputs. At this point, the meter should show you something, but the specific numbers are irrelevant.
• Repeat for the negative diode by connecting the positive lead to the negative diode and connecting the stator inputs and negative lead.
• The meter shouldn’t show any reads when you connect the positive lead and stator inputs.
• To check the regulator, connect the meter leads to the bike’s battery as it’s running. The reading should not be higher than 14.5 volts or lower than 13.5 volts. If the reading is higher, this means the battery is overcharged and you may need to replace the regulator rectifier.

What is a Rectifier on Outboard?

Typically, the output should measure about 13.6-14.3 volts. On newer voltage regulators, there is also a rectifier, which can convert the AC current from the power generated to DC output. Since boats use DC power opposed to AC power.Rectifiers also convert tachometer output from the stator, allowing the tachometer to receive the appropriate pulse type and display the motor RPM.

Symptoms of Bad Rectifier on Outboard Motor

Most of the time, there are two scenarios that indicate the regulator has failed.

First, if a diode burns out, it will cause the battery to drain. If the battery leads to a faulty regulator rectifier, this is easy to determine.

When the battery causes the problem, you will struggle with poor starting, accessories malfunctioning and fluctuating meter readings.

While these symptoms are generally clear-cut, we still recommend using our testing method above to ensure your problem is the regulator.

The regulator rectifier could also fail if the system overheats, as discussed earlier.

When the regulator rectifier can no longer moderate voltage levels, your boat battery will begin to overcharge.

To confirm this, you simply need to use the voltmeter to diagnose that the battery has too high of a charge while the engine is running and producing voltage. Back to those 13.5-14.3 VDC readings. This indicates that the rectifier has failed to convert excess power appropriately.

You might also notice the accessories running sporadically as the additional voltage is causing trouble.

Whenever the regulator rectifier goes bad, you always want to check other components of the system. Sometimes, there is a defect that leads to the failure of multiple parts.

Installing a New Outboard Regulator Rectifier

The best place to start is to look at the diagram that comes with your new parts or look at the existing setup to replicate it.

In many cases, these are the basic steps you will need to replace the regulator.

Remove the old rectifier and examine how it is connected.
Be careful not to cut any wires that can be re-used with the new setup. Otherwise, you won’t be able to install a direct replacement.
If you get a direct replacement, you should simply be able to connect the wires to one another.
If you need to make modifications, connect the appropriate wires together and solder them to prevent corrosion.
You can also use adhesive-lined shrink wrap connectors and seal them with a heat gun.
Start the engine to test the regulator.
Again, you’ll want to check with your service manual for your specific engine and model to make sure you get all the torque specs correctly.

But the replacement of this part is relatively easy and usually doesn’t require any special tools at all!