Publisher Description

A comprehensive guide to making tofu and cooking with it, featuring 75 versatile recipes from one of the country's leading voices on Asian cuisine.From sleek, silken tofu with delicate toppings to piping-hot fried satchels in a robust sauce, tofu provides a versatile canvas for the intricate flavors and textures that Asian and vegetarian cooks have long enjoyed. America has embraced tofu as a healthy, affordable ingredient. And while it has been welcomed into sophisticated mainstream dining, tofu is often hidden in Western guises and in limited applications. In her third intrepid cookbook, celebrated food writer and teacher ANDREA NGUYEN aims to elevate this time-honored staple to a new place of prominence on every table.Asian Tofu's nearly 100 recipes explore authentic,ancient fare and modern twists that capture the culinary spirit of East, Southeast, and South Asia. There are spectacular favorites from Japan, Korea, Thailand, Singapore, and India, as well as delicious dishes from Taipei, San Francisco, Santa Monica, and New York. Andrea demystifies tofu and interprets traditional Asian cuisine for cooks, sharing compelling personal stories and dispatches from some of the world's best tofu artisans along the way.For those who want to take their skills to the next level, the tofu tutorial clearly outlines tofu-making technique, encouraging readers to experiment with the unparalleled flavors of homemade varieties. But time-pressed cooks needn't fear- while a few recipes, such as Silken Tofu and Seasoned Soy Milk Hot Pot, are truly best with homemade tofu, most are terrific with store-bought products. Some traditional dishes combine tofu with meat in brilliant partnerships, such as Spicy Tofu with Beef and Sichuan Peppercorn and Tofu with Kimchi and Pork Belly, but this collection is predominantly vegetarian and vegan, including the pristinely flavored Spiced Tofu and Coconut in Banana Leaf and vibrant Spicy Lemongrass Tofu Salad. And innovations such as Okara Doughnuts reveal tofu's more playful side.For health- and eco-conscious eaters and home chefs who are inspired to make the journey from bean to curd, Asian Tofu is the perfect guide.

Author Biography

Andrea Nguyen is one of the country's leading voices on Asian cuisine and the author of the acclaimedAsian Dumplingsand the James Beard- and IACP-nominatedInto the Vietnamese Kitchen. She has written forSaveurmagazine, where she is also a contributing editor, theLos Angeles Times, and many more publications. She is also the creator of the Asian Market Shopper app. Her engaging and knowledgeable writing on cuisine and culture has attracted a loyal and well-deserved readership that actively follows her blog, Andrea lives in Santa Cruz, California.

Table of Contents

Introduction    1
Tofu Buying Guide    7
Tofu Cooking Tips    14
 
Homemade Tofu Tutorial 

Master Soy Milk Recipe    23
Silken Tofu    28
Tofu Pudding    30   
Block Tofu    32
Seasoned Pressed Tofu    38
Tea-Smoked Pressed Tofu    40
White Fermented Tofu    41
Fresh Tofu Skin    44
Soy-Simmered Fried Tofu    46
 
Fresh and Satisfying 
Snacks and Starters 

NAKED AND SIMPLE 
Japanese Chilled Tofu    51
Chilled Tofu with Crunchy Baby Sardines    53
Chilled Tofu with Spicy Sauce    54
Tofu Skin Sashimi    55
Tofu with Century Eggs    56
Savory Tofu Pudding    59
 
GRILLED AND FRIED
Miso-Glazed Broiled Tofu    61
Fermented Tofu, Lemongrass, and Goat Skewers    63
Grilled Crisp Tofu Pockets    67
Fried Tofu with Chile Peanut Sauce    69
Deep-Fried Tofu    70
 
CREATIVE AND MODERN 
Spiced Tofu and Vegetable Fritters    71 
Tofu French Fries    74
Fresh Tofu with Sauces and Toppings    75
 
Soothing and Soft 
Soups and Hot Pots 

CASUAL AND SPECIAL SOUPS
Tofu, Tomato, and Dill Soup    79
Miso Soup    80
Tofu, Seaweed, and Pork Soup    81
Hot-and-Sour Soup    82
Silken Tofu and Edamame Soup    84
Tofu Bamboo and Chicken Soup    86
 
WARMING HOT POTS
Warm Simmered Tofu    87
Silken Tofu and Seasoned Soy Milk Hot Pot    89
Soy Milk Lees and Kimchi Hot Pot    91
Soft Tofu and Seafood Hot Pot    93
Stuffed Tofu in Broth    94
 
Homey and Wholesome 
Main Dishes 

STIR-FRIED, PANFRIED, AND BRAISED
Stir-Fried Tofu, Shrimp, and Peas    100
Spicy Tofu with Beef and Sichuan Peppercorn    101
Panfried Tofu with Mushroom and Spicy Sesame Sauce    103
Tea-Smoked Tofu with Pepper and Pork    104
Bitter Melon with Tofu and Pork    106
Tofu with Tomato and Green Onion    107
Lemongrass Tofu with Chiles    108
Hakka-Style Stuffed Tofu    109
 
DEEP-FRIED AND ROASTED
Twice-Cooked Coriander Tofu    112
Soy Milk Lees and Vegetable Croquettes    114
Batter-Fried Tofu with Chile Soy Sauce    116
Roast Chicken with Red Fermented Tofu    117
Crisp Roasted Pork Belly    119

POACHED, SIMMERED AND STEAMED
Simmered Greens with Fried Tofu    121
Tofu and Vegetables in Coconut Milk     124
Spiced Tofu and Coconut in Banana Leaf    127
Tofu Chicken Meatballs in Lemongrass Broth    129
 
Versatile and Delicious 
Salads and Sides 

TOSSED
Tofu Noodle and Vegetable Salad    133
White Tofu, Sesame, and Vegetable Salad    135
Greens and Fried Tofu in Mustard Sauce    136
Spicy Lemongrass Tofu Salad    137
Pressed Tofu and Peanuts in Spicy Bean Sauce    138
 
SAUTEED, STIR-FRIED, AND SIMMERED 
Spicy Yuba Ribbons    139
Savory Soy Milk Lees with Vegetables    142
Bean Sprouts with Panfried Tofu and Chinese Chives    143
Tofu with Kimchi and Pork Belly    145
Water Spinach with Fermented Tofu    147
Fermented Tofu Simmered in Coconut Milk    148
 
Religion and Artistry 
Mock Meats 

Tofu and Vegetable Fritters    154
Sweet and Savory Tofu Eel    157
Bear Paw Tofu    159
Cellophane Noodle and Tofu Rolls    161
Savory Okara Crumbles    163
 
Building on Traditions 
Buns, Dumplings, Crepes, Noodles, and Rice 

Spicy-Sweet Fried Tofu Buns    167
Tofu Steak Burgers    170
Vegetarian Wontons in Chile Oil    172
Tofu, Pork, and Kimchi Dumplings    174
Chinese Chive and Pressed Tofu Turnovers    177
Spiced Chickpea Crepes with Soybean Paneer    179
Fried Shrimp Tofu Skin Rolls    182
Stir-Fried Thai Noodles    184
Foxy Tofu Noodle Soup    187
Sushi Rice in Tofu Pouches    188
Fried Rice with Fermented Red Tofu    191
 
Amazing Transformations 
Sweets and Dessert 

SOLIDIFIED, SQUEEZED, AND GRATED
Sweet Tofu Pudding with Ginger Syrup    195
Tofu Blancmange with Cured Pineapple and Lime    196
Essence of Tofu Ice Cream    198
Tofu Tiramisu    199
Cashew and Cardamom Fudge    201
 
BYPRODUCT BONUSES
Gingery Chocolate Chip Cookies    202
Okara Doughnuts    203
 
Basics 

Chinese Sweet Fragrant Soy Sauce    207
Japanese Seasoned Soy Concentrate    208
Korean Seasoned Soy Sauce    209
Thai Sweet Chile Sauce    210
Chile and Sichuan Peppercorn Mix    211
Fermented Tofu, Lemongrass, and Chile Sauce    212
Chile Oil    213
Chicken Stock    214
Dashi Stock    215
Savory Kelp Relish    216
Tamarind Liquid    217
Green Chutney    218
 
 
Ingredients    219
Selected Bibliography    224
Acknowledgments    225
Index    226
Measurement Conversion Charts    231

Review

IACP Cookbook Award finalist

"The most gratifying part about cooking from Asian Tofu is that all the recipes work the way they're written."
— Boston Globe
 
"This book should be a priority for anyone with the slightest interest in Asian cuisines."
— Anne Mendelson, Taste & Travel

"Flavorful meditations on soy."
—Christine Mulhke, New York Times, Summer Cookbook roundup, 5/31/12

"If you're the kind of person who has only one, or two, or three ways to prepare tofu — or is just plain mystified by the whole world of bean curd — Asian Tofu is a godsend."
 —T. Susan Chang, National Public Radio, 2012's Best Summer Cookbooks, 5/23/12

"Beautiful, knowledgeable and thorough, this is the best book on tofu to make its way to my bookshelves. Highly recommended."
—Carolyn J. Phillips, Zester Daily, 5/22/12
 
"Andrea Nguyen's new cookbook, Asian Tofu (Ten Speed Press, $30), might sound like a succinct, single-subject treatise. However, the book—her third—is actually a robust tome, almost like a biography of the soybean, from how it's used in multiple Asian cuisines to how it's relevant in contemporary American food culture."
—Priscilla Mayfield, Orange Coast Magazine, 5/10/12

"This fresh, imaginative take on tofu includes an easy, practical lesson on making your own (we tried it, and it works like a charm), as well as a wide assortment of recipes for both traditional and imaginative foods. . . .  Nguyen makes it appealingly clear that tofu is to be prized for itself and not for its utility as a meat substitute."
—Kitchen Arts and Letters bookstore, Spring 2012 newsletter
 
"A whole cookbook devoted to tofu? Yes, please. Andrea Nguyen's newly released  Asian Tofu is a gorgeous guide to all things bean curd."
—Caroline Russock, Serious Eats, "Cook the Book" feature, April 2012
 
"Asian Tofu gives soybeans some much needed love. Punctuated with gorgeous images, the cookbook breaks down everything you need to know about tofu, from making it yourself to the various styles and uses in different cuisines. Goodbye, drab associations. Hello, full-flavored revelation."
—Tasting Table National, "Soy Genius", 3/28/12
 
"Nguyen presents tofu recipes through a dazzling array of Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and other cuisines that are approachable and easy for the home cook."
—Garrett McCord, Huffington Post, "The Soy Sensation," 3/28/12 

"A fantastic fresh take on an ingredient that is, frankly, overlooked far too frequently."
—Eater National, 3/2/12

"A keeper. . . If you're still reading this with the same "I must make that!" enthusiasm we felt as we flipped through Asian Tofu, then yes, this is a must-have book."
—LA Weekly's Squid Ink blog, Cookbook of the Week, 3/1/12

"Serious tofu lovers (and that includes me) will be amazed by the recipes and lore in Andrea Nguyen's masterful new book. Those more skeptical will become immediate converts to one of the world's most elemental, versatile, and delicious foods." 
—James Oseland, editor-in-chief of Saveur and author of Cradle of Flavor
 
"Andrea Nguyen's exquisite book restores tofu to its proper place—one based on deep craft, elegance, and imagination. Here is tofu in its Asian context where it is deeply appreciated for its goodness, not the promises for health we Westerners have endowed it with. An altogether gorgeous work, Asian Tofu not only answers whatever questions you might have about tofu, but is graced with the author's adventures on the tofu trail." 
—Deborah Madison, author of This Can't Be Tofu!  and Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
 
 "Andrea Nguyen has done it again, taking another subject that crosses many cultural lines—and can be a touch intimidating—and demystifying it, making one immediately want to try these techniques and recipes. The Homemade Tofu Tutorial at the beginning is inspiring and worth the price of admission alone." 
—David Kinch, chef-owner of Manresa restaurant
 
"This book is worth buying just for the glorious Tofu Chicken Meatballs in Lemongrass Broth. But it is full of other tofu wonders from up and down the East Asian coast such as Soft Tofu and Seafood Hotpot and Savory Tofu Pudding. It will find much use on my shelf."
—Madhur Jaffrey, actress, cookbook author, and TV journalist

Prizes

Commended for IACP Crystal Whisk Award (Single Subject) 2013

Review Quote

"This fresh, imaginative take on tofu includes an easy, practical lesson on making your own (we tried it, and it works like a charm), as well as a wide assortment of recipes for both traditional and imaginative foods. . . .

Excerpt from Book

Introduction Despite all the terrible terms that have been attached to tofu, it is still considered a good four-letter word by countless people. As an Asian staple, it is beloved by rich and poor alike. Whether fresh and tender or aged and fermented, tofu denotes basic sustenance, culinary craftsmanship, time-honored traditions, good health, and more. Tofu pervades many aspects of Asian life and culture, as I discovered during my travels and research for this book. For example, visit a country in East or Southeast Asia and you''ll see tofu practically everywhere, on restaurant menus, as street food, and at cafeterias. You can buy it from open-air ("wet") food markets and neighborhood tofu shops as well as fancy food halls and superstores such as Walmart and Carrefour. Small packages of tofu snacks are often displayed as impulse buys at Chinese hypermarkets. There are even ample opportunities for tofu tourism. A popular excursion from Taipei is to "The Capital of Tofu" in Shenkeng, renowned for its tender tofu and old-fashioned methods, such as cooking the soy milk over wood charcoal for a light smokiness. Under the archways that line the charming Old Town area, vendors sell a variety of tofu, including tofu ice cream, grilled stinky tofu on a stick, and salty-sweet fermented tofu. Among the highlights of visiting Kyoto are elaborate multicourse tofu meals and tofu shops that date back to the 1800s. Tokyo offers elegant tofu fine dining restaurants, but in the outer stalls of the Tsukiji market, you''ll come across the twenty-something Table-Mono tofu vendors hawking super rich soy milk, tofu, and ice cream to passersby. Tofu is featured in many Asian cookbooks but it has also been spotlighted in comic books and children''s books. It has inspired artists and designers to create posters, sculptures, and even tofu MP3 speakers and lamps! Few other foods can rival tofu''s significance to so many people. East Asian Stronghold While people agree that tofu is an ancient food, no one is clear on when it was invented and by whom. Soybeans are native to China and were considered one of five sacred "grains." As a primary foodstuff, the soybean''s main virtues were its ability to grow well in poor soil without depleting the land, and its consistently high yield. The little bean was a useful famine food and the Chinese took to transforming it. Initially it was made into a type of gruel, and later into palatable staples such as soybean sprouts, soy sauce, and tofu. Legend holds that King Liu An of Huainan invented tofu, and excavated tomb carvings point to tofu being made as early as the Han Dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE). Scholars also suggest that the Han Chinese may have learned about rendering curds from milk through contact with nomads from the northern steppes. However, tofu did not catch on as a popular, commercially made food until the tenth century, when the Mandarin term dou fu (tofu) was mentioned numerous times in literature. It was from the Song Dynasty (960-1279 CE) onward that tofu spread to other parts of the region. Wherever the Chinese exerted their influence, whether through religion, politics, or trade, tofu went with them. That''s why so many Asian tofu dishes are Chinese in origin. How tofu knowledge flowed from China to other cultures, however, is murky. For example, monks and scholars traveling between China and Japan may have transmitted tofu culture to Japan between the eighth and twelfth centuries. It was first mentioned in Japan in 1183 as a Shinto shrine offering, but the characters as we know them today were not written in Japan until 1489. What is generally agreed upon is that tofu was not part of everyday Japanese eating until the middle of the Edo Period (1603-1868). Some support the theory that the Japanese learned about tofu from the Koreans, as a result of the Japanese invasions of Korea between 1592 and 1598. In any event, Japan took to tofu in a big way, evidenced by the 1782 bestseller Tofu Hyaku Chin by Ka Hitsujun. Among the book''s one hundred tofu recipes are enduring classics, such as hiya yakk o (chilled tofu; page 51) and yu dofu (simmered tofu; page 87). Korea and China share a border, and tofu was likely introduced to Korea in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Historic records show that it even played a role in diplomacy. In 1434, as part of their tribute relationship, the Chinese emperor requested Korean cooks skilled at making dubu (tofu) preparations. By the fifteenth century, tofu had indeed become widespread in Korea, though it was mostly made by Buddhist monks as temple food. It was part of an annual ceremony to memorialize the deceased, a practice that continues today. Wavering Southeast Asia Vietnam was also a major player in China''s tribute system and a Chinese colony for a millennium, from 111 BCE to 939 CE. Additionally, Vietnamese Buddhism is closely aligned with Chinese Buddhism. Given all of those factors, Vietnam stands out among the Southeast Asian countries as having a broad array of tofu ( dau phu or dau hu ) dishes, including Chinese favorites and many native preparations, such as Lemongrass Tofu with Chiles (page 108). The Vietnamese also developed an extensive vegetarian repertoire that included tofu-based mock meats and fake fish sauce. While tofu is present in other parts of Southeast and South Asia, it is not a huge deal. According to Thai food authority David Thompson, tofu was a latecomer to the Thai table: "Bean curd is a Chinese import and stayed in that community up until the 1930s when the Chinese and their food became more accepted in Thailand. And so such a relatively short time has meant very little use in pure Thai food." While tofu may be added to curries as a meat substitute, included in simple stir-fries and added to noodle dishes, the Thai repertoire includes few tofu-centric preparations. In general, tofu is treated in a Chinese manner, such as being deep-fried and eaten with sauce, or it plays supporting role, as exemplified in pad Thai (page 184). The fermented tofu preparation ( lon tao hu yi , page 148) is an unusual dish that presents tofu in a Thai manner. People living in Cambodia and Laos enjoy tofu dishes that are often borrowed from Chinese traditions. However, they also invent some of their own, such as the Hmong poached chicken and tofu meatballs on page 129. In multicultural and multireligious Singapore and Malaysia, treats such as grilled stuffed tofu pockets (page 67) satisfy the dietary needs of Muslims, Buddhists, Christians, and others. While tempeh (fermented soybeans) is king in mostly Muslim Indonesia, tofu is a strong runner-up in terms of popular soy-based foods. Indonesia was part of the spice trade route, which explains original creations such as twice-cooked tahu bacem (page 112) from Java. The Chinese brought tofu to the Philippines but locals didn''t adapt it to their cuisine in a significant way. Filipino cookbooks rarely include tofu recipes. As contribution to my research, freelance writer and food blogger Tracey Paska informally polled relatives and tofu vendors at the popular Cubao wet market in Metro Manila. She asked them to name Filipino tofu preparations. Aside from tokwa''t baboy , a dish of fried tofu, boiled pork, and vinegary soy sauce, people could not name any other traditional dishes that featured tofu. However, Chinese Sweet Tofu Pudding with Ginger Syrup (page 195) is a very popular snack. Myanmar (formerly Burma) is something of a rogue tofu country. Burmese cooks employ a different kind of tofu. Irene Khin Wong, the owner of Saffron 59 Catering in New York City, explained that soybean-based tofu is a Chinese import that endures in her native country. However, the prevailing and more popular Burmese tofu (also called Shan tofu) is made from ground legumes that are cooked in a polenta-like manner and then cooled and cut. Tofu can be made from many kinds of legumes, including lentils and peanuts, but this book focuses on the soybean version. South Asian Newcomer Although soybeans had long been a minor crop in India, tofu didn''t arrive until 1976 when a tofu shop was established near Auroville, an experimental utopia in southwest India. According to the SoyInfo Center, Westerners made that tofu. Renowned author and teacher Julie Sahni explained that India was a late tofu adopter because initially soy milk and soybean curd were presented as substitutes for cow''s milk and paneer. While Indians who had contact with the Chinese were open to those soybean products, many others took offense at the notion that a bean could replace the precious foods produced from cows, revered and sacred animals in their culture. "It was too close for comfort, too competitive, and very difficult to accept," she said. Much had changed by 1985, Sahni noted in Classic Indian Vegetarian and Grain Cooking , as tofu was gaining popularity in India as a protein-rich, healthy substitute for traditional paneer cheese. Many Indian cooks have picked up on tofu since then. The saag tofu and cashew and tofu fudge recipes (pages 121 and 201) demonstrate how some people integrate tofu into traditional preparations. Today, India is the world''s fifth largest producer of soybeans. Tofu in America I was born in Vietnam but grew up in America, and tofu was regularly on our family''s table, a natural extension of my Asian heritage. This isn''t the case for most Americans, despite the soybean''s long history in the United States. British colonist Samuel Bowen planted the first soybeans in Savannah, Ge

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