A charming and original two-page extract from the famous Gazette Du Bon Ton magazine (see below) published in July 1924.
The title of this article is "Confidences d'une Crinoline " or Confidences of a Crinoline Dress, embellished with text and pochoir illustrations by Jaqueline Jacques-Duché - see below
Many of the famous Art-Deco artists of the day contributed illustrations to the magazine which were printed by using the hand-applied, color pochoir technique .
Good condition. Two pages, four sides with central fold as published. Binding holes to the fold - see scan. Page size 10 x 7.5 inches
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Gazette du Bon Ton
The Gazette du Bon Ton was a small but influential fashion magazine published in France from 1912 to 1925.[1][2] Founded by Lucien Vogel, the short-lived publication reflected the latest developments in fashion, lifestyle and beauty during a period of revolutionary change in art and society.[1] Distributed by Condé Nast, the magazine was issued as the Gazette du Bon Genre in the USA.[3] Both titles roughly translate as "Journal of Good Taste"[4] or "Journal of Good Style."[3]
The magazine strove to present an elitist image to distinguish itself from larger, mainstream competitors like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in America and Femina, Les Modes and L'Art et la Mode in France.[5] It was available only to subscribers and was priced at a steep 100 francs per year, or $425.61 in today's money.[6]The magazine, published on fine paper,[2] signed exclusive contracts with seven of Paris' top couture houses – Cheruit, Doeuillet, Doucet, Paquin, Poiret, Redfern, and Worth – to reproduce in luscious pochoir the designers' latest creations.[6] After World War I, a select group of other design firms were added to the magazine's repertoire, including the houses of Beer, Lanvin, Patou and Martial & Armand. However, the editors' choice of designers was arbitrary, and a number of the era's most prominent couturiers never contributed to the pages of the Gazette du Bon Ton, among them Chanel and Lucile. The magazine's title was derived from the French concept of bon ton, or timeless good taste and refinement.[4]
The Gazette du Bon Ton aimed to establish fashion as an art alongside painting, sculpture and drawing. According to the magazine's first editorial: "The clothing of a woman is a pleasure for the eye that cannot be judged inferior to the other arts."[4]
To elevate the Gazette's literary status, the publication featured essays on fashion by established writers from other fields, including novelist Marcel Astruc, playwright Henri de Regnier, decorator Claude Roger-Marx, and art historian Jean-Louis Vaudoyer.[6] Their contributions ranged in tone from irreverent to ironic and mocking.[6]
The centerpiece of the Gazette was its fashion illustrations.[7] Each issue featured ten full-page fashion plates (seven depicting couture designs and three inspired by couture but designed solely by the illustrators)[7] printed with the color pochoir technique.
It employed many of the most famous Art Deco artists and illustrators of the day, including Etienne Drian, Georges Barbier, Erté (Romain de Tirtoff), Paul Iribe, Pierre Brissaud, André Edouard Marty, Thayaht (Ernesto Michahelles), Georges Lepape, Edouard Garcia Benito, Soeurs David (David Sisters), Pierre Mourgue, Robert Bonfils, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Maurice Leroy, and Zyg Brunner. These artists, rather than simply drawing models in outfits, depicted them in various dramatic and narrative situations.
Jacqueline Duché , born Jacqueline Cranney onin Paris and died onin Paris , is a woman of letters and an illustrator of children's stories.
Jacqueline Cranney married in 1914 Jacques Duché 1889-1923. Jacqueline's mother, Marie-Jeanne Franceschi 1864-1944 was a sculptor [1] , daughter of sculptor Jules Franceschi 1825-1893, granddaughter of Emma Fleury , actress at the Comédie Française, herself daughter of landscape painter François Antoine Léon Fleury , l804-1858 and granddaughter of Antoine-Claude Fleury (1743-1822). Jacqueline Duché's uncle was also sculptor Paul Franceschi 1828-1894. [ archive ] [ archive ]
Predisposed therefore to the visual arts, Jacqueline Duché was also a woman of letters, allied to the grandfather of her husband Jean-Baptiste Duché 1813-1878, father, in second marriage, of Lucie Duché 1858-1942, wife of the famous publisher, Gaston Gallimard .
Best known as an illustrator, she notably illustrated the first editions of the Boscher method , a famous reading method now published by Belin . Jacqueline Duché is also a novelist. Most of his works are illustrated by him. As a decorator, we owe her the Women, Child, Family pavilion at the 1937 World's Fair as well as the first class children's playroom on the Normandy liner .
The eldest son of Jacques and Jacqueline, Bertrand Duché 1915-1992, married the grand-niece of the press magnate Henry Poidatz , Françoise Poidatz, cousin of Germaine Mornand née Poidatz. Their second son, Doctor Didier Duché 1916-2010 , was a child psychiatrist. [ archive ]
The sisters of Jacqueline Duché, Hélène Cranney1899-1995 married in 1920 with Pierre-René Roland-Marcel 1883-1939 and Anne Cranney 1890-1967 married with René Hachette 1886-1940, their daughter, Claude Hachette 1911-1993, s Married in 1931 to Elzevier Masson 's grandson , Georges Masson, publisher, whose mother was the daughter of the painter Jean-Léon Gérôme .
Patient with Alzheimer's disease [ref. needed] , she died in 1973.