ILN illustration: Paris fashions for the New Year; Jan 5, 1867 |
Original illustration from Illustrated London News, titled: Paris fashions for the New Year, from wood engraving with fine detail and clear impression, nice hand coloring by academic artist, approx. size is 30 x 25.5 cm, text in English on the back. From issue of Illustrated London News, English 19th century illustrated magazine, dated Jan. 5, 1867.
Here is full text of associated article:
PARIS FASHIONS FOR JANUARY.
BROCADED silk dresses appear to be in favour at the Imperial
Court: but they have not yet come into general wear. The great
expense of setting the looms for the more elaborate patterns has
no doubt interfered with the production of any very striking
novelties at his late period, so that, with few exceptions, small
patterns of no particular character are those which are chiefly
met with. For walking-dresses the robe en fourreau, shaped into
some fantastic form at the base, with a different-coloured jupon
either plaited or elaborately ornamented at the bottom, is as
much in favour as ever. Ball-dresses are usually made with an
upper and under jupe, the one being much shorter than the other,
and generally of a different material. The under jupe, for
instance, is sometimes in white satin trimmed with rouleaux of
the same material, and made with a train. The corsage a la
Grecque is also of white satin, trimmed with narrow lace at the
top and at the edges of the sleeves, which are very short. Over
the satin jupe are worn two other jupes of different lengths of
white tulle. Ball-dresses, too, are of white muslin, embroidered
with small flowers in stripes, and with wreaths of similar
flowers running round the lower part of the upper and under jupes.
They are also of white tarletan, with a lace veil which hangs
from the coiffure falling over the robe behind, and are generally
worn with a scarf of rose-coloured satin ribbon, ornamented with
a fringe of white beads, which is fastened at the waist behind
with a large bow.
An elegant evening dress has the jupe made of white satin,
bor¬dered with an orange-coloured silk cord, with three broad
ruches of orange ribbon running up each seam. Over this jupe is
worn a robe of orange-coloured velvet, short in front, open at
each side, and ter¬minating a la queue, and having long hanging
sleeves, lined with white satin and finished with silk tassels.
The corsage is made very low. Chemisette of white plaited muslin,
with short sleeves of the same material. Coiffure of interlacing
gold chains.
There are no novelties in bonnets to remark upon. Velvet is
almost universally worn. Amber ornaments are beginning to
super¬sede jet ; but, being far more expensive, are not likely
to become at all common,
THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Fig. 1. Evening Dress.—Jupon of light blue taffeta, with a
plaited flounce about 10 in. or 12 in. deep. The robe, which is
of white foulard covered with large bouquets of flowers, is mad
in front, and goes off gradually, a la queue; the lower part is
formed into scallops, which are bordered with blue velvet ribbon
covered with white silk guipure. Each seam of the robe is hidden
by a similar ribbon, having an insertion which corresponds with
the guipure. The bodice is made square-shaped, and very low, with
loose hanging sleeves lined with blue taffeta, and scalloped at
the edges, which are trimmed to match the bottom of the robe. The
chemisette is in puffed tulle, with long puffed sleeves tightened
at the wrists.
Fig. 2.—Jupe of warm grey taffeta, ornamented down the sides
and at the lower part with guirlands of leaves in blue velvet.
Blue silk corded girdle round the waist. Corsage in white foulard.
Blue velvet Zouave jacket, embroidered with grey silk and silver
thread, with small silver bells running round the edges.
Fig. 3. Ball-dress aux Quatre Saisons.—The jupe of pale grey
foulard, or of velvet even, spotted over with snowflakes and
trimmed with swansdown. Tunic of white taffeta, cut into small
scallops at the bottom, and ornamented with vine-leaves and
grapes. A fringe, composed of ears of corn intermixed with
poppies, hangs from the trellis-work of gold-coloured velvet,
which, worn over a bodice of green silk, forms the corsage.
Spring flowers run round the lace chemisette and ornament the
coiffure.
Fig. 4. Robe, vest, and jacket, with long, hanging sleeves, in
dark velvet trimmed with sable. Chapeau of velvet, with a wreath
of blue feathers and blue velvet strings.