1886 Perron map TANGER TANGIER, MOROCCO (#133) |
Nice small map titled Tanger, from wood engraving with fine detail and clear impression, nice hand coloring. Overall size approx. 18 x 16.5 cm, image size approx. 10.5 x 9 cm. From La Nouvelle Géographie universelle, la terre et les hommes, 19 vol. (1875-94), great work of Elisee Reclus. Cartographer is Charles Perron.
Tangier
French Tanger , Spanish Tánger , Arabic Ṭanjah
port and principal city of northern Morocco. It is located on a bay of the
Strait of Gibraltar 17 miles (27 km) from the southern tip of Spain; Tétouan
lies about 40 miles (65 km) to the southeast. Pop. (2004) 669,685.
The city
Tangier is built on the slopes of a chalky limestone hill. The old town
(medina), enclosed by 15th-century ramparts, is dominated by a casbah, the
sultan's palace (now a museum of Moroccan art), and the Great Mosque. European
quarters, whose populations have declined considerably since integration with
Morocco in 1956, stretch to the south and west. Tangier has been the summer site
of the Moroccan royal residence since 1962. An important port and trade centre,
the city has excellent road and rail connections with Fès, Meknès, Rabat, and
Casablanca, as well as an international airport and regular shipping services to
Europe. The building trades, fishing, and textile and carpet manufacturing
supplement the city's vibrant tourist trade.
Tangier and its suburbs dominate the surrounding region, which occupies the
northernmost area of the country, situated on a peninsula immediately north of
the Gharb lowland plain and adjacent to the Rif Mountains that lie to the
southeast. Beyond the city, the region is poor in resources. Vegetable growing
and poultry breeding have traditionally been the main rural economic pursuits.
During the early to mid-20th century, Tangier was periodically under the
collective administration of several countries. It was during this time that
many Westerners settled there, and the city became a place of great political
and artistic ferment. Tangier was famous as a destination of artists and writers
from Europe and the United States during the 1950s and '60s and to a lesser
extent in later decades. One of the most famous Moroccan writers to reside and
work there was Mohamed Choukri (Muḥammad Shukrī), whose For Bread Alone (1973),
the first of three autobiographical works, chronicled coming of age in Tangier.
History
Few cities have had a more varied history than Tangier. Existing already as a
Phoenician trading post in the middle of the 1st millennium BCE, it later became
Carthaginian; the remains of a Carthaginian settlement can still be seen near
Cape Spartel. In 81 BCE the Roman general Quintus Sertorius captured the city
(then known as Tingis) from the Mauretanian king Bocchus I. In 38 BCE, during a
round of Roman civil unrest, Tingis was taken on behalf of Octavian (the future
emperor Caesar Augustus) by Bocchus II from his brother Bogud, who supported
Octavian's rival, Mark Antony. Becoming a free city in 42 CE, Tingis was made
the capital of the Roman province of Mauretania Tingitana, with the name Tingis
Colonia Julia Traducta, and it remained important commercially even after the
political capital was removed to Volubilis.
After five centuries of Roman rule and a brief occupation by the Vandals in the
5th century, Tingis was captured by the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century.
When the Arabs arrived in the 7th century, however, Ceuta, not Tangier, seems to
have been their principal fortress on the strait. The Arab general ʿUqbah ibn
Nāfiʿ (Sidi Okba) reached Tangier in 682 and from there raided deep into
Morocco. In 707, when Mūsā ibn Nuṣayr was appointed governor of North Africa, he
had to reconquer Tangier; the Amazigh (Berber) Ṭāriq ibn Ziyād was appointed
governor and in 711 launched an invasion of Spain, where his landing point,
Gibraltar, still bears his name as a corruption of Jabal Ṭāriq (Mount Ṭāriq). In
951 ʿAbd al-Raḥmān III of Córdoba, the first caliph of the western Umayyad
dynasty, annexed the city, and it remained under Muslim Spanish rule until the
collapse of the caliphate about 80 years later. Under the Almoravids, Tangier
became Moroccan again and—despite a failed attempt to conquer the city by the
Portuguese prince Henry the Navigator in 1437—remained so until captured by the
Portuguese in 1471.
In 1580 Tangier passed, with Portugal itself, to Spain; it returned to
independent Portugal in 1656. In 1662 it was transferred to the English crown as
part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, wife of Charles II. The English put
great hopes on this new possession, but, though a fine mole (breakwater) was
built and a new fortification erected, the expense of maintaining the city
against Moroccan attacks and the Protestant suspicion that it was a centre of
Roman Catholicism caused it to be abandoned again in 1684. Since then it has
remained a part of Morocco.
Tangier began to play a significant role in history again in the late 18th and
early 19th centuries. At the end of the 18th century, a British consul and some
100 British citizens resided there and in the surrounding Tétouan region. During
the siege of Gibraltar by the Spanish (1779–83), these Britons were expelled by
the sultan. Tangier became the diplomatic capital of Morocco in the 19th
century, and in 1845 Sir John Drummond Hay began his four-decade tenure there as
British representative in Morocco; throughout that period British trade and
political influence predominated in the region.
In 1844 Tangier was bombarded by a French fleet as part of French campaigns
against the Algerian emir Abdelkader. The Spanish then invaded Morocco in 1860,
thus challenging a British policy aimed at preventing any Continental power from
securing control of the southern shore of the Strait of Gibraltar. This
situation led the British to issue a warning that a permanent Spanish occupation
of Tangier or of the nearby Moroccan coast would not be permitted. About the
same time, various foreign powers began to establish their own postal services,
and in 1864 a lighthouse was established at Cape Spartel that was maintained by
the consuls.
The result of these activities and privileges was that Tangier received an
international regime of its own when the rest of the country became a French
protectorate in 1912. Already in the proposed Franco-Spanish Agreement of 1902,
the two powers had been willing to see the city eventually become neutral, and
the Anglo-French Agreement of 1904 stipulated that Tangier should have a special
status. This was confirmed at the Algeciras Conference (1906), a meeting that
arose partly from calls for Morocco's independence made by the German emperor
William II during a visit to Tangier the previous year (these events were part
of what came to be called the Moroccan crises). With the establishment of the
French protectorate, a commission with French, Spanish, and British members was
appointed to oversee the administration of Tangier, and by 1914 it had with
difficulty agreed on certain recommendations. The outbreak of World War I
necessitated fresh discussions, and a statute was not agreed upon until 1923.
Five years later further modifications were introduced, with Great Britain,
France, Spain, the Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden, Portugal, and Italy being
recognized as the administering powers. This statute remained operative until
June 1940, when Spain took advantage of the fall of France during World War II
(1939–45) to occupy the zone in the name of the khalīfah of Tétouan and to
impose a Spanish regime on the city. After the war the victorious Allies
insisted on Spanish withdrawal, and in October 1945 the international
administration was reestablished, with the participation of the United States;
Italy, an Axis country during the war, was readmitted later. With some minor
modifications, the statute then remained in force until the independence of
Morocco in 1956.